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2010 Chevy Camaro SS - Brakes Of Wrath
We Up The Stopping Power Of Our '10 SS With Some Bigger Binders
May 1, 2010
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2010 Chevy Camaro SS - Brakes Of Wrath
The brakes that come as standard equipment on the Camaro are pretty damn good. Nonetheless the iron rotor's rusty patina isn't all that attractive and, while they are certainly capable from a performance standpoint, we felt there was room for improvement.
Ah, the much-discussed caliper weights. These small innocuous bits of iron (lead is bad for you) have been much-discussed on the Internet. They were put here by some pocket protector-equipped engineer to solve a harmonic problem inherent to the front brakes. To us they are no big deal but, to some, it's like finding a pimple on the Mona Lisa.
The rotor was secured to the hub by a small fastener. Before doing this make sure you have a good selection of metric Torx bits.
We then removed the factory rotor, caliper, and rubber brake line. Here you can see the OEM backing plate. Some people elect to remove this plate to promote better brake cooling but we decided to leave it in place.
The factory caliper is pretty large but it's dwarfed by Baer's 6S six-piston monster. The monoblock design is much stiffer than the factory unit and will better resist flexing under hard use.
Many of the factory fasteners are reused so we decided to ensure they stay put by dabbing them with a little red thread locker.
We then installed the radial caliper mount bracket to the factory upright and torqued them down using the factory bolts.
Here you can see the two-piece, 15-inch Baer rotor next to the 14-inch stocker. Due to the aluminum hat of the new rotor, the new larger rotor actually weighs less than the smaller stocker.
The new rotor was then slid into place. The new rotor does not have a provision for the factory retaining bolt; then again, it really didn't seem necessary since the rotor is hub-centric.
The new 6S caliper was then put in place and torqued to spec. Shims are included in the kit but we found that everything lined up perfectly as-is. The key area to check is that the rotor is riding exactly down the middle of the caliper.
Per Baer's instructions we removed the front brake line bracket and opened up the hole just a bit.
Differential piston sizing helps force the brake pad to push flat against the rotors, resulting in even pad wear. The sizing of the pistons on the rears are smaller to help balance out brake bias and ensure that the front brakes carry more of the load.
All Baer calipers' pressure and wiper seals protect from debris and control pad pull-back for a more consistent pedal feel. The stainless pistons also help lessen the transmission of heat from the brakes into the fluid.
The kit ships with D3015 street pads, which are quiet and low dust, making them perfect for high-performance street driving. There are also quite a few more aggressive track compounds available from companies like Hawk and Performance Friction for when drivers want to do some serious track work.
The new braided steel brake lines attach via a banjo-style arrangement. We made sure to use the crush washers provided and not to overtighten the bolt.
Here you can see the 15-inch rear Baer rotor and its factory 14-inch cousin. Again, the two-piece design of the new rotor meant the weight was almost identical.
Here's the rear with the factory rotor and caliper removed. You can see the factory parking brake, which is retained in this kit.
Since the new calipers are much larger than the stockers we needed to trim away some of the backing plate. Resist the urge to just remove the plate since it does help keep road debris out of the parking brake mechanism.
We should have mentioned this earlier but all of the rotors from Baer needed to be hit with some brake cleaner before installation since they ship with a light protective coating.
With the backing plate trimmed we could then install the rear radial mount bracket. Like the fronts, the factory bolts are reused, which we dabbed with some thread locker.
And here's the fully installed rear system. Even though we doubt there's any performance gain from the cross drilling there's no question they look killer.
The final step in this process was to bleed the brakes. You can do it old school by pumping the brake pedal and cracking bleeder screws or you can go high tech like we did. This power bleeder from Blue Point made a tedious job easy, especially considering how newer ABS cars can be a pain to bleed properly.
As you can see, the factory wheels just clear the new larger brakes. The red calipers look great and the larger-diameter rotors help fill the large void inside of the 20-inch wheels.
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