The door skin is attached, in spots, on the inside of the door, as well as the outer-edge. These areas were reached and separated with our trusty air chisel.
Once the skin was removed, attention was needed to clean the inner areas where the new skin will be tach-welded to the inner structure. Here again, the air chisel is a great tool of choice.
The remaining part of the outer doorskin was the pinched edge that held the skin in place with spot welds from the factory. An air chisel separated the spot-welded pieces in a snap.
With the rest of the skin removed, a clean surface to weld to was needed before reskinning. A wire wheel or a grinding disk does the job fine.
Just before installation of the new door skin, take the time to inspect the entire inner structure for rust or any other type of damage that could easily be rectified at this point.
With the inner structure ready, fitting the new skin was done with extra care to make sure every side lined up exactly like the original.
Once the skin was lined up correctly, a body hammer and dolly pinched the edge nicely. This is a job that should be left to an experienced bodyman-too heavy with the hammer and you might end up with an irregular edge.
The "V" portion allows the sheetmetal to conform to the doors' concave shape. Without the "V" relief, the metal would bunch up and not form to the correct shape easily.