Building a high-performance, high-horsepower engine today is relatively easy compared to just a short decade ago. It used to be that a 500hp engine for the street was fairly stout, which is still very respectable. However, these days it seems like 600-plus and higher horsepower levels has become the new standard. As cylinder head, camshaft, and airflow technology has developed, packaging components that work together and make big power has proven to be somewhat simple.
How do you properly fuel an old muscle car with this kind of power? You could mount a high-volume electric pump on the framerail, run the fuel lines to and from, wire it, sump the tank, etc. A huge amount of work that will still possibly work well for drag racing, but without a proper sump and baffle in an autocross or open track event with high lateral g-forces, there’s a good chance you’ll end up uncovering the fuel pickup and cause fuel starvation issues.
Even though new factory-fit aftermarket tanks are available, they still use the factory size feed lines and do not have any tank baffling; AN line connections; or any high-volume, in-tank pump options. All that’s changed, though, because today Aeromotive has developed an affordable, bolt-in solution that’s also available through Summit Racing Equipment.
Aeromotive has tanks available for ’67-68 Camaros (PN AEI-18657) and ’69 Camaros (PN AEI-18658). (Aeromotive offers tanks for other makes and models as well. Be sure to check their website.) This is a brand-new stamping of the OEM GM tank, but has a recessed top well where a brand-new OEM 0-90 ohm fuel sending unit and 340 Stealth pump are housed.
The Aeromotive tank comes with a machined billet aluminum hanger assembly with a beautiful black anodized finish. The fuel system also has integral ORB-06 ports and uses true pass-through style electrical bulkheads, like Aeromotive does on all their pumps to ensure adequate electrical connections and to accommodate the amperage draw from EFI-style pumps.
Additional features include a return line where the return line hose keeps returning fuel away from the point of pickup and incorporates a duck-bill that not only calms the returning fuel down but eliminates any chance for back flow. Even better, the Aeromotive 340 fuel pump flows 30 percent more than the 255-lph pump at the same pressure and almost 50 percent more than the 190-lph pump; this makes the Aeromotive tank capable of supporting a much wider horsepower range.
We should also note that the Aeromotive fuel system comes fully assembled, with a beautiful gray powdercoat finish, including the 0-90 ohm universal sending unit, is fully tested before leaving their facility; making it so you can bolt it in with confidence and no assembly required. Best of all, Aeromotive provides a full 1-year warranty for better peace of mind. Now that you have the complete lowdown, follow along as we install this Aeromotive package into a first-gen ’67 Camaro.
F-body Stealth Fuel Tank Specs
- PN 18657. Stamped steel fuel tank fits ’67-68 GM F-body cars
- Silver powdercoat finish
- EFI-style internal baffling
- 0-90 ohm universal fuel level sending unit
- Black anodized pump hanger assembly
- 340 Stealth fuel pump (PN 11140)
- Pre-pump filter sock assembly
- (3) ORB-06 ports: outlet, return, and vent
340 Stealth Fuel Pump Specs
- Fuel Injected Engines
- Up to 850 hp – naturally aspirated
- Up to 700 hp – forced air induction
- Carbureted Engines
- Up to 1,000 hp – naturally aspirated
- Up to 800 hp – forced air induction
1. Start by disconnecting the negative battery terminal and drain all fuel from the gas tank (the original, factory tank in our case). Then, using a 5/16-inch socket, remove the single fastener holding the filler neck cover in place and remove cover.
2. Next you’ll need to remove the remaining three screws that hold the filler neck to the taillight panel.
3. Remove the four screws from inside the trunk that hold the fuel tank filler cover in place. From there, take out the gas cap and its retaining cable from inside the trunk.
4. With the license plate removed, loosen the filler neck clamps and remove the sleeve. Since our original filler neck sleeve was cracked, we picked up a new one from Summit Racing (PN OER-K630).
5. We then supported the factory tank in place (a floor jack or jack stands can be used if you prefer) and loosened the two nuts holding the gas tank retaining straps with a 9/16-inch socket.
6. Next, lower the tank, loosen the fuel line connections, and disconnect the fuel sending unit.
7. Before installing the new tank, you’ll first want to handle the electrical connections for the fuel pump and the fuel pump sending unit. The three -6 ORB fittings also need to be installed and tightened onto the fuel pump billet hanger. From there, install the lines and be sure to tighten them prior to fitting the tank in place. Once the new tank is installed you can’t reach the fittings to tighten them.
8. At this time, we went ahead and installed all-new fuel tank straps from OER (PN OER-3908341), along with a new anti-squeak kit (PN OER-K915) and a filler neck sleeve (PN OER-K630). Better to do it right the first time than to have to do it twice.
9. With the tank straps and anti-squeak kit in place; raise the tank into position and tighten the 3/8-inch fuel tank strap retaining nuts. Make sure the tank is centered and no fuel lines or electrical wires are pinched. From there, slide the fuel tank sleeve over the tank inlet, then reinstall the fuel tank filler, filler cover, and gas cap.
10. Make sure all the wires and lines are properly tied in place and away from all heat sources, and be sure to have at least a 1-inch gap between the fuel tank and tailpipes. Keeping the fuel as cool as possible is vital to extracting the most horsepower and helps prevents cavitation. This will also keep the fuel pump happy, ensuring you get the most performance and longevity from your pump.
11. To finish up the system, the Aeromotive fuel system needs to be installed with a return style regulator, we used part numbers AEI-13109-EFI and AEI-13204-CARB. Out back, the fuel pump wiring requires a 10-gauge wire and must be triggered with a relay that’s rated with a minimum of 20 amps; we used the Aeromotive fuel pump wiring kit part number AEI-16301.
It’s important to follow the following steps; start by turning the fuel pump on without starting the engine; allow the pump to run for several seconds and check the fuel pressure. If there is no pressure, turn the fuel pump off, wait one minute, then turn the fuel pump back on and recheck the pressure. Repeat this procedure until the fuel pressure gauge registers pressure or you detect a fuel leak. It may be necessary to loosen the fuel line fitting at the pressure regulator to bleed off excessive trapped air in the system. Once the fuel pressure gauge registers pressure, go ahead and start the engine. The gauge on the fuel pressure regulator should read between 3-12 psi for carbureted applications and 35-60 psi for EFI applications. Finally, test-drive the vehicle to check for proper operation, followed by recheck the fuel system for any leaks.