9 At this point, here's where we stood. You can see what we meant by a lot of spot welds to drill. You also get an idea of how big this panel really is.
10a Before installing the new trunk, we needed to clean up all the welding surfaces, plus do a little straightening and hammering on the seams to get ready for our next steps.
11 Here's our new trunk floor, part no. 14774W. It comes completely coated in weld through primer, not only protecting it from corrosion, but also eliminating the need to clean away the standard EDP coating so a clean weld can be made. If this option is available for any replacement metal you order, get it. The time savings is well worth the minimal extra cost.
12 The Classic Industries-sourced floor comes with all the spare tire and jack mounting tabs in place in the correct locations.
13 This panel is very large and unwieldy. Having a couple of extra sets of hands is a must to get it in place. It will take some coaxing and gently prying to get the floor in, so don't be alarmed if it doesn't just slip right in place. We found bending some of the trunk panel's tabs inward some helped with getting it in place. These tabs can easily be tapped back into proper position without damaging them.
14 Here's how the new floor looked once in place. No rust, no holes, and no complicating patch welds to be cleaned up. The extra cost of buying the one piece floor is easily offset by the labor savings if you installed patches, or the floor in sections.
15 To hold the floor in place while welding it in you're going to need several clamps to keep it secured.
16 The new floor fits like a glove, especially here at the front where it meets the passenger compartment floor.
17 With all the clamps in place, the last thing left to do is weld it up. We'll be using a plug welding method to join the panels. Another option is to get a MIG spot welding kit like the one available from Eastwood, part number 13901, that we've used in previous body panel stories.