How to Install Chris' Hotrodz Straight Axle Kit - Going Gasser!

We install a Chris' Hotrodz gasser straight axle kit for some retro fun and style.

Patrick Hill Feb 3, 2014 0 Comment(s)
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Hammer Gasser Frame 2/37

18. Next, the new "tab" is hammered down to the gasser frame rail, clamped, then welded.

Clean Welding 3/37

19. Before moving on, we went back and cleaned away any welding splatter and high spots from what we just did.

Remove Temporary 4/37

20. Now you can remove the temporary crossmembers tack welded in place at the beginning.

Weld Boxing 5/37

21. To strengthen everything, the side gusseting/boxing plates are welded on. The plate with the notch goes on the outside, to clear the firewall body mount. The outer and inner plates are clamped in place, then skip welded to the frame. The plates won't sit equal with each other when in position, but don't be alarmed, that's how they should be.

Weld Top Boxing 6/37

22. Once the side gusset plates are in position, the top and bottom boxing plates are set down, marked for grinding/trimming, trimmed, then welded in place. On a Tri Five frame there's a nub on the bottom the lower boxing plate will butt up against. With all of the gusseting/boxing plates staggered, this spreads the load out, creating three areas of strength, one on each end of the boxing plate, plus the center welded part from your original frame to the new gasser frame.

Mount Rear 7/37

23. Time for the leaf springs. First, the rear shackles need to be mounted to the original frame. These pieces come anodized. Any area that has to be welded on the shackle must have its anodizing ground off.

Measure Front Spring Mount 8/37

24. Measure from the center bolt of your front spring mount to the shackle center 31 and 5/8 inches. Once the rear shackle lines up at that measurement, tack it in place on the frame. One more time, use a square to verify your axle is centered on the subframe, and the axle is set back at an angle of seven degrees.

Rear Shackle Line Up 9/37

24. Measure from the center bolt of your front spring mount to the shackle center 31 and 5/8 inches. Once the rear shackle lines up at that measurement, tack it in place on the frame. One more time, use a square to verify your axle is centered on the subframe, and the axle is set back at an angle of seven degrees.

Tack Weld Spring 10/37

25. The tips of the spring perches are tack welded onto the axle. This is followed by tack welding the steering stops onto the axle ends.

Grease Inside Loop 11/37

26. Grease the inside of the loops on your spindle mount. On the kingpin, make a mark on the top of the pin that lines up with the notch in the middle of the pin's shaft. Then check the fitment of the kingpin in the axle. The big end of the spindle goes on TOP of the axle. Set the spindle in place, then slide the kingpin in halfway. Then slip the bearing in the bottom gap of the spindle mount. Then tap the kingpin all the way in place, and tighten your set screw.

Brake Caliper Brackets 12/37

27. Now the brake caliper brackets and lower steering arm can be installed. Once the caliper bracket is in place, the lower steering arm is bolted on, with the lower steering link facing towards the REAR of the car. Then the upper steering arm is installed, with the steering link facing towards the FRONT of the car.

Steering Arm 13/37

28. The draglink goes on after that, connecting to the lower steering arm. Be sure to install one Heim spacer between the Heim joint and the steering arm.

Bolt Rotors To Spindles 14/37

29. After packing the bearings and installing them, we bolted the rotors onto the spindles, followed by the calipers.

Install Shock Brackets 15/37

30. The shock brackets are installed at this point, and checked for clearance, to make sure the lower shock bolt clears the spring perch. With the shock fully extended, measure from your boxing plate inward (towards the firewall). This will be the upper mounting bolt for the shock absorber. One the bolt is in place, tack weld it in. Then make sure the brakes don't hit the shock when the wheels are turned to full lock. The steering stops welded on earlier should keep that from happening. If they don't, move the stops to a different location till they do.

Install Sterring Box 16/37

31. Pretty simple here, install the steering box and drag link.

Boxing Plate Closeup 17/37
Motor Mount 18/37

32. The motor mount crossmember comes next. The included crossmember will need to be cut down to fit and center your engine in the frame. You'll need a block to mock this up, and with the distributor installed to make sure you don't set the engine too far back and create clearance problems with the firewall. The engine should be set back 2-3 degrees. Keep in mind when you set the engine location what you'll be using for headers, and a steering shaft/link.

Kit Installation 19/37

33. With all that work complete, you can finished weld everything, tear it all apart, and get it ready for finishing painting/powdercoating/whatever. Then it can be reinstalled, and move onto the next step in your car's build. When it's all done, you'll end up with something as sexy looking as this!

Sources

Chris' Hotrodz
White City, OR 97503
541-826-5808
www.tri5gasser.biz

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