11. The door carcass was blasted and primed black inside-and-out prior to replacing the skin. Now it’s the perfect starting point.
12. A careful inspection will usually yield some problems. This window-regulator mounting hole was wallowed out and had fatigue cracks—an easy repair that will make the hardware function as new, so don’t just let it go.
13. Along the entire mating surface for the skin and the carcass, the paint was ground off for a good contact.
14. Craig then applied a coating of weld-through primer to the entire perimeter. Leave no metal un-coated.
15. The top flange on the door is blank—it needs a couple holes added for spot welds, window fuzzy mounting holes, etc. Measure their locations on the carcass and transfer them to the flange.
16. A lot of times a drill bit will distort an area, mainly because the bits are often dull and we force them through, rather than cleanly removing metal to make the hole. This is the perfect application for a hand-held hole punch.
17. Rather than hang the skin on the door carcass, Craig fits the carcass onto the skin. This requires supporting the skin, which is fairly delicate and easily dented. Craig keeps it simple by breaking down the skin’s shipping box and laying it on a body shop saw horse—firm, full support without concentrated pressure points that will twist or dent the skin.
18. The door carcass gets set on the skin. The skin comes with a 90-degree flange around the perimeter, and the carcass nests inside. It’s not a tight fit—the skin is oversize by about 1/8-to-1/4 inches all the way around. Center the carcass within the flange, leaving the same border around the three sides (front, rear, and bottom edges).
19. Along the window opening, the doorskin folds over and registers fully on the top of the carcass. The skin will be spot-welded a couple of places along this edge.
20. A couple of panel clamps set very, very lightly hold the skin to the carcass around its perimeter. Over-tightening the clamp will dent and deform the skin.