Chevy Nova Pedals - Pedal Power

Give Your '62-67 Nova Some Pizzazz With Some Billet Lokar Pedals

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Next to the steering wheel, the most important interface between a guy and his ride is the pedals. They are definitely worthy of some attention. Enter Lokar Performance Products, long known for its trick pedal assemblies that combine form and function into systems any gearhead would be happy to rub against his feet.

In the case of our '66 Nova, the owner wanted to swap the old-tech rod-type throttle linkage for an easier-to-adjust cable arrangement. The Lokar stuff made this a snap, and as an added bonus it looks great, too. Total install time was around two to three hours, and the parts set us back $242.33, plus shipping, from Summit.

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Here's what we'll be installing. The pedal assembly (PN BAG-6127, $120.95) fits '62-67 Novas. Also needed is the throttle cable and bracket set (PN DP-1000U36, $70.39). The matching ball-milled brake pedal cover (PN BAG-6131, $50.99) keeps it all looking great.

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The first step is to disassemble the Lokar gas pedal assembly by removing the stainless socket capscrew from the end of the mounting shaft.

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Over in the engine bay, you'll need to disconnect the old throttle linkage from the carburetor. Once finished there, you can remove the throttle rod and arm since they'll no longer be needed.

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The factory pedal assembly is held to the firewall by two screws. Loosen these and the old unit can be removed. Then drill out the two original holes to 1 7/64-inch for the two 1/4-inch bolts provided by Lokar. With the holes drilled out, mount the shaft to the firewall from the car's interior. The firewall mounting plate will be installed from the engine side of the firewall, sandwiching the firewall between the plate and the mounting shaft. Once the bolts are secured with the supplied nylock nuts, you can mark this part of the install done!

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Now you can reassemble the gas pedal assembly. Keep in mind that the splined arms can be switched left to right, if needed, for clearance. With the assembly attached to the mounting shaft, push the upper arm parallel with the firewall and make a mark on the firewall in line with the hole in the upper arm. This is where you will drill the 5/16-inch hole for the throttle cable to pass through.

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The 36-inch Lokar throttle cable kit comes with everything you need, including the throttle cable bracket, return springs, and even the Allen wrenches.

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Now it's time to install the stainless carb bracket. With that done, attach the cable housing adjuster to the bracket through the upper hole (arrow). Next, measure the distance between the fitting on the bracket and the fitting on the firewall and add 2 inches. Make sure the cable isn't straight between the two fittings since there needs to be slack for engine movement. Cut the cable housing using diagonal cutters or a fine-toothed hacksaw. Also, don't remove the ferrule when cutting the housing; simply slide it back out of the way. Remember, you're cutting the housing and not the cable itself.

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Now install the cable housing between the fitting on the carb bracket and the fitting on the firewall. Then install the inner cable through the pedal and pull to the carb end fitting. Measure back 1 inch and cut the cable. Next, attach the cable to the fitting and lock it down with the Allen screw.

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This is how the cable clevis attaches to the throttle pedal inside the car. We did it outside the car so you could get a better view.

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Attach the carb end fitting to the carburetor throttle arm using the supplied hardware.

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With this attached, you can then use the adjusters to get the slack out of the cables. Check that there's no cable binding at either the throttle pedal or the carb before taking the car for a spin. You could also run the return springs back to the Lokar throttle cable bracket, but we chose to run them forward.

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After ditching the stock rubber pedal, you can start making the brake pedal look as good as your new go-pedal. Remove the second and fourth rubber inserts from the billet Lokar pedal. Position the cover over the stock steel pedal pad and mark each of the four holes (a 3/16-inch transfer punch works great for this). Once marked, you can use a drill with a 1 1/64-inch bit to drill out the holes. Once the holes are deburred, you can move on to the next step.

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Secure the new aluminum cover to the stock steel pedal pad using the supplied 8/32-inch countersunk screws and nylock nuts. Tighten the screws evenly so the Lokar cover stays squarely seated against the pad. Be careful not to overtighten.

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Apply the supplied 3M glue to the two pads following the instructions on the container.

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Pop the glue-smeared inserts carefully back into their slots, and you're done! If you get any glue on the aluminum, make sure you clean it up before it dries. You can now get back to driving your Nova, only now with a bit more style.

Sources

Summit Racing
Akron, OH
800-230-3030
SummitRacing.com
Lokar Performance Products
Knoxville, TN 37932
865-966-2269
http://www.lokar.com
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