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Giving Power to 1967 Chevy Nova Windows

Upgrade your 1966-’67 Chevy Nova with power windows from Electric-Life

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Do your manual window winders get you down when you’re trying to wind them up? Having to physically wind up and down your Chevy’s windows every time you take it out for a cruise can be a pain, but if you enjoy those tedious few moments of rolling up your window then reaching over to roll up the passenger window also, this tech story probably isn’t for you. This is for the guys that have put their heart, soul, and pocketbook into their beloved Chevy and now just want to feel the wind and hear that V-8 purr without unnecessary hassle.

That’s exactly where this 1967 Nova was at—it’s a nice driver that just needed that last little touch of modern convenience. To get it there, we picked up a set of custom-fitted, but off-the-shelf power window regulators from Electric-Life made to fit 1966 and 1967 Chevrolet Novas. The kit is pretty straightforward and comes with everything you need to convert your window-winding experience from manual labor to modern luxury. The switches that come in the kit utilize the stock winders, but instead of winding they are connected to power switches so you just press down to roll the window down or up to roll ’em up. It really doesn’t get much easier than that, and even retains a stock look if that’s something you’re going for (although we took a different approach).

So, if you’re ready to remove the hassle of manual wind-up windows in your 1966-’67 Nova, follow along as we walk you through the process of installing power window regulators from Electric-Life. CHP


The kit comes with everything you see here, including power regulators, wiring, rubber door looms, and switches.


First up, with the help of Christian Arriero in the Motor Trend Group Tech Center, we removed the door panel to gain access to the old mechanical window regulators. We took the opportunity to give you a visual of where the regulator goes from the outside because from here on out it gets a little tricky to show what’s going on behind the inner doorskin.


It’s a good idea to mark the upper bolt that holds the remote window channel in place before removing the old regulator, as it has room for adjustment.


Then it was time to unbolt and remove the old regulator. Some finagling will likely be required.


Here’s a look at the old regulator (bottom) compared to the new power unit from Electric-Life (above).


Next, you’ll want to remove the four bolts (two on each bracket) located on the raised half of the regulator mounting brackets, because what good are mounting bolts if they aren’t actually mounting to anything?


The next step we took will make your life a whole lot easier: plug in the supplied Weather Pack connector to the regulator motor before installing it within the door. If you want to wait until it’s installed, go right ahead, but don’t say we didn’t warn you.


The last step before actually getting the new regulator into the door is adding some multi-purpose grease to the rollers.


Now you can go ahead and work in the new regulator using the same finagling techniques used to remove the old one, just in reverse this time.


With the regulator in there, insert the inward facing roller into the remote window channel and the two outward-facing rollers on the channel connected to the window.


Then install those four regulator mounting bolts you removed a few steps ago and screw in the remote window channel bolt to its marked position.


Now, it’s on to the wiring. You’ll want to remove the sill plate. Ours was nice and easy, with only a few screws holding it in place.


With the sill plate out of the way, you’ll be able to remove the kick panel next.


With a hole saw, you will want to drill two offset holes, one in the door and one in the body going into the footwell, using the rubber door loom as a reference.


With the holes drilled, you can install the rubber door loom and run the wires from the door, through the loom, and into the footwell.


The next part of the process is the switches. While the kit comes with a set, it required some cutting of the stock door panels so we had our friend Danny Nix over at Classic Performance Products (CPP) make us a custom set of switches.


They will work by sandwiching the door panel instead of having to cut material away and bolting to the door itself.


Installation was as easy as running the wires through the door panel and sandwich plate and then tightening it all down with two small nuts on the backside.


Then Danny connected the custom switches with the Electric-Life wiring via Weather Pack connectors to make sure everything stays dry and functional year round.


Before putting everything back together again, we added some weatherstripping where the wires feed into the door to protect against abrasion.


Then it’s just a matter of feeding the wires through and popping the door panel back into place.


With one side all done and looking good, all that’s left is to do the same install on the other door. Then just tie both sides of the wiring together and connect to a hot wire and a ground for full functionality.

Photography by Taylor Kempkes


Chicago, IL 60631
Classic Performance Product
Buena Park, CA 90621,



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