15. With Rollins holding the door glass against the top of the door frame, Stutts feeds the Electric Life regulator into the door shell and starts the installation by getting the regulator rollers fed into the glass track.
16. Once the rollers are correctly located in the glass track, Stutts can line up the studs to hold the regulator to the door shell.
17. The Electric Life regulator uses threaded studs and nuts for an easier installation over the original bolts. Stutts lines up and installs the four nuts to retain the regulator up front, then moves to the two on the adjustment track. While the front nuts can be snugged up, the track nuts are left loose for final adjustment.
18. Every car will require a different amount of track adjustment, and a jump box can be employed to check operation. After Stutts adjusted the glass to a level down position, as well as rolling up and down with no binding, all six nuts got a final tightening to complete the driver side door.
19. The same techniques were used to convert the passenger side, and with the regulator swap complete, it's time to wire it all up.
20. Since the roll cage prevents back seat passengers, Rollins doesn't use the quarter windows much. So Electric Life supplied their two door switch kit that uses GM style bezels and switches (PN 4990-10-356).
21. After determining each door shell only had a few places that would accommodate the depth of the new electric switches, Rollins selected the upper front area of the door. He started the wiring by connecting the blue and black wires between the window motor and the switch connector. The remaining three wires were fed through the door jamb boots for their connections (red to supply power, while gray and purple connects the driver and passenger side switches together, allowing the driver to operate both front windows from the two-door switch.
22. The switch uses a pair of retaining clips to hold it to the door panel. While this should work well in most applications, Rollins wanted a little extra insurance to combat the rigors of racing.
23. The extra insurance would be a pair of switch retainers. Originally used by GM to hold electric switches firmly to door panels, Rollins came across a few from a fellow racer who restores cars.
24. Matching up the retainer with the switch, it was determined Rollins could use the retainer as a template to outline the area to cut out of the door panel for the switch, which was done with a black marker.
25. Using a new razor blade to ensure a clean cut without snags, Rollins cut through the vinyl and removed it before proceeding to trim out the cardboard panel.
26. After a few test fits, the retaining clip was installed, followed by the new switch and bezel assembly. To cover up the hole left behind by the previous window handle, Electric Life provided a pair of its crank hole covers (PN 5010-10-095).
27. When installing the switch connector for the first time, it will be a tight fit. Make sure to fully seat the connector on the switch, as it will provide better operation and prevent possibly having to remove the door panel in the future to fix a loose connection.
28. Re-install the door panels, but do not install the clips, screws or armrests yet. Check operation on both switches to make sure everything works properly. Once everything checks out, install the door panel retainers, handles and armrest assemblies.
29. The final product has a factory installed look, and thanks to the hole covers, Rollins isn't forced to spend money for new door panels or face an unsightly hole from the previous window regulator. Best of all, window operation is now done with the push of a button.
Darren's Custom & Restorations