Once that's out of the way, we can remove the factory camshaft. The stock camshaft specs out at 0.500-inch intake/0.492-inch exhaust lift, 195-degrees of duration intake and 201-degrees of duration on the exhaust. Our Mast Motorsports camshaft is going to increase lift on both the intake and exhaust side. Its kit provides a stronger valve springs capable of handling the added lift an duration.
The Mast Motorsports camshaft comes in much larger than factory in both lift and duration at 0.573I/0.588E with durations of 220-degress intake and 234-degrees exhaust, with a lobe separation angle of 116-degrees. The unique design of Masts camshafts ensure driveability, yet also make power through the entire power band. As you can see, the valve springs are larger off the cylinder head, which results in a tighter coil when installed. Not installing proper valve springs when using a larger camshaft can result in valve float, which kills horsepower and can do serious damage to an engine.
Using some engine assembly grease, we can slowly install the camshaft, making sure not to hurt any of the cam lobes against the camshaft journals. Take your time here and spin the camshaft slowly applying some pressure unless you feel the cam simply will not go. If that is the case, back it out, ensure no damage has occurred, and try again. Justin Knapp at Tune Time Performance installed two long rods into the oil valley that hold the lifters from falling as you install the camshaft. This is a great idea as will not have to remove the cylinder heads.
Next, we opened up our cam phaser, making sure to leave the one bolt still on that holds the spring in place on the backside. Take the time to inspect the phaser so you dont accidentally take all the bolts off, and shoot the springs across the room. I have never seen this happen, and personally, have no desire to.
Once opened, you can install the phaser limiter, which ensures there is no valve float. Ultimately, by adding both duration and lift to the valvetrain, we have to take some cam timing away from the engine so the valves do not make contact with the pistons. We can then close the assembly back up and torque it all together at 8 lb-ft.
Then, we can reinstall the phaser, ensuring the pin in the camshaft lines up with the pinhole in the phaser. Mast Motorsports installation instructions wanted us to torque the phaser bolt to 45 lb-ft, then tighten another 50-degrees. Luckily, our torque wrench measures in both ft-lbs and degrees. We held the engine from spinning via the flywheel and torqued it down. To my surprise, 45 lb-ft plus another 50-degrees actually worked out to 158 lb-ft of torque.
We then took off the coil packs, valve covers, rockers, and pushrod so we could access the valve springs. Nothing out of the ordinary in here compared to the rest of the LS-family besides the offset intake valve rocker arms found on the L99, L92, and LSA engine, among others.