While placing the piston/rod assembly in the motor, we dropped the crankshaft to the bottom on the working hole. Gently sliding the assembly through our clamp, we compress the rings and push it into the cylinder with the back end of a rubber hammer. If at any time, you feel the piston stop sliding down the cylinder, stop immediately because one of the rings has become uncompressed and any pressure will bend or break it against the deck of the block.
We then placed the cap on the rod, connecting it to the crankshaft. Make sure to at least have this snug before attempting to spin the motor for the next hole. Once all were in, we used both a torque wrench and a stretch gauge to tighten the bolts. The stretch gauge monitors how much the bolt actually stretches as it is torqued. We ended up at 65 lb-ft of torque, or a stretch of approximately 0.006-inch.
We gave the assembly a few spins to make sure nothing was binding. Spinning the motor at this point takes a little bit of effort, but as long as you do not feel any sudden stops, or hear any noise other than the rings against the cylinder bores, you should be fine.
We then bolted on the oil pump that comes with the kit and measured for clearance to the oil pan. Even though this is a shrouded oil inlet, resting the oil pump against the oil pan is not a good idea. We had to clearance the bottom of the oil pan slightly.
Then, using the supplied gaskets and some silicone, we buttoned up the bottom end.
The timing chain followed as we degreed the cam in at 109-degrees. It is always a good idea to check the cam timing using a timing disc. Often, the advertised camshaft timing is different than the actual timing once the engine is assembled. Our setup was off by 3-degrees. We installed the camshaft at straight-up using the timed gear. The hydraulic roller cam supplied with the Trick Flow Specialties top end kit has 0.558-inch lift (intake and exhaust) and 246/254 degrees duration.
At this point, we were just about done with the bottom half of the motor. Liberally oiling the lifters, we installed them followed by the cylinder heads, pushrods, and hydraulic roller rocker arms. The length of the roller lifters sometimes make them difficult to install with the cylinder heads already on the motor. That is why we installed them first. The Trick Flow Specialties cylinder head bolts were torqued to 65 lb-ft following the standard cylinder head sequence after the threads were white lubed and the washers were greased. As this is the same exact install we performed on the motor in the November issue, I will just provide a nice collage of it all going together. In case you missed the original article, we used Trick Flow's 195cc aluminum heads with 64cc chambers, 2.02-inch intake valves and 1.60-inch exhausts.
We then trucked our small block over to B&B Automotive Machine Shop in Lynbrook, New York, to see what kind of power our small-block would make. Glenn and Henry over at B&B cater to just about every make out there from big-block Chevys to turbochargerd Supras. They take the necessary steps to simulate real-world conditions on the dyno