Dyno Testing 7 Popular LT1 Engine Modifications

Fact Or Fiction - Part 1

Eric McClellan Apr 9, 2013 0 Comment(s)


Test 7 – Electric Water Pump
Max Power: 380tq, 336hp
Average Power: 345tq, 277hp
Cost: $270

Ghtp 1304 20 Dyno Testing 7 Popular Lt1 Engine Modifications Electric Water 1/23

We decided to throw in an electric water pump because it has no mechanical drive linkage to the engine. This decreases parasitic loss and allows the engine to generate more torque. Every little bit counts and this addition certainly will prove bigger gains as the build continues. Before you get your under pants in a bunch, we know that $270 feels like a lot for roughly 15 extra pounds-foot and 5 horsepower at peak power, but (again) we know from experience that this addition will make bigger power gains with larger upgrades.

Ghtp 1304 21 Dyno Testing 7 Popular Lt1 Engine Modifications Water Pump 2/23
Ghtp 1304 19 Dyno Testing 7 Popular Lt1 Engine Modifications Electric Water Pump Dyno Chart 3/23


Test 8 – Octane Booster
Max Power: 374tq, 335hp
Average Power: 345tq, 277hp
Cost: $15

Ghtp 1304 22 Dyno Testing 7 Popular Lt1 Engine Modifications Octane 4/23

Ok, calm down and count to ten. We had a bottle of this stuff on the shelf and gave it the ol' college try. We've heard for years that these things are scams in bottle form and at first glance, the rumors might be right. However, think about our combination. It's a strictly stock engine; it really doesn't need any additional octane. If this motor had some big heads, high compression and a wicked cam it would certainly benefit from added octane. But, since our tests had 91-octane to begin with, the added octane was wasted on our motor. So does this stuff work? Yes, it does raise the octane level of your fuel, but is it worth it for this particular motor at this particular time? That's debatable.

Ghtp 1304 18 Dyno Testing 7 Popular Lt1 Engine Modifications Octane Booster Dyno Chart 5/23


Conclusion
We learned a lot of things from these tests. Clearly all of the little tricks will only add up to so much when the motor is still restricted by the factory exhaust, throttle body, intake, heads, and valvetrain. The common wisdom of 10hp from this and 10hp from that equals 20hp, just isn't true. The engine is an air pump, but more than that it is a system of interacting parts – each one affecting the other. When you modify your engine, you should do so with purpose and intent. For example, don't bother upgrading the throttle body and heads if you still have a stock air intake. Don't add octane booster or race gas unless you are running high compression or boost that requires you to pull timing. Knowing that our LT1 still has a few restrictions in it, we'd like to uncork it a bit more to pull out its potential before we start opening it up to see how far we can push a stock cube motor.

Sources

TPIS
952-448-6021
www.TPIS.com

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