2014 Corvette Stingray C7 Gets a Boost - Seven Pound Hammer

Stuffing boost into a new C7 Stingray

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The newest evolution of our beloved Corvette comes from GM with an LT1 engine rated at 460 hp and 465 lb-ft or torque. These are very respectable numbers and for most people, more than enough to peg the fun meter. But, for some, having the same power level as every other C7 pilot isn't what they had in mind. They want "more" and the easiest way to get there is to stuff in some extra atmosphere. We're talkin' boost, and one of the biggest players out there, when it comes to superchargers, are the folks at ProCharger. See, they knew that there would pent-up power demands from all the new C7 owners, so they burned some midnight oil and had a kit ready to go shortly after GM's new Stingray hit the streets.

Built around their proven P-1SC-1 centrifugal supercharger, ProCharger wanted to make the system was as complete, and easy to install, as possible. To that end, they stuck with their uber-efficient, and time-tested, air-to-air intercooler and made sure critical components, like ABS, wouldn't need to be moved or otherwise tinkered with. A "tuner kit" in satin starts at $5,300 and the handheld tuner (if you're not going have your car custom dyno tuned) will set you back another 400 bucks. We found the kit to be complete with nothing needed besides the tools to get it installed. After road testing the supercharged C7, we felt the added power was great as it ratcheted up the power, but still kept the car easy to drive. To get the lowdown on the kit, and how it fits into the car, we stopped by ProCharger to see one getting grafted into a brand new Stingray.

Required Tools and Supplies
Open-end wrench set (standard and metric)
3⁄8-inch and 1⁄2-inch socket sets (standard and metric)
3⁄8-inch hex bit set (standard and metric)
7mm and 8mm nut driver
T15, T25, T30 Torx driver
Propane torch (for crank bolt)
Pry bar
½-inch impact gun (for crank bolt)
½-inch breaker bar (for crank bolt)
Flat and Phillips screwdrivers
Plier set

C7 Corvette Stingray Engine Bay 2/27

01. This was our starting point, the bone stock engine bay of a new C7 Stingray. Since the instruction book from ProCharger is very detailed (and in color), we’re not going to inundate you with a blow by blow “how to.” Instead we’re going to touch on the highpoints.

Air Shroud Intake Tubing 3/27

02. First up was removing the air shroud and intake tubing from the factory air cleaner.

Supplied T Pcv Hose 4/27

03. We then used the supplied T to modify the PCV hose near the cooling fan. One nice aspect of this kit is that we didn’t have to tap into or mess with any fluid lines.

Main Bracket 5/27

04. Next up was assembling the main bracket and attaching it to the P-1SC-1 supercharger. A nice feature is that the bracket system can accept virtually every blower they make, from this P-1SC-1 to a massive F-1R or F-2.

Oil Drain Line 6/27

05. Part of this process involved installing the oil drain line and filling the supercharger with a bottle (6 ounces) of blower oil that came in the kit. The oil drain line will make servicing the unit much easier.

Procharger 1 7/27

06. And just like that, the unit was bolted together and ready for transplant into our C7 Corvette. The unit comes standard in polished and there’s a discount if you choose the matte silver finish (seen in background). ProCharger also offers the unit in black for a few bucks more.

Blower Intercooler 8/27

07. With the blower assembled, we decided to tackle the system’s intercooler. ProChager prefers air-to-air intercooling since it’s less complex, and easier to install, compared to air-to-water-air units. They also feel it’s more efficient and, with a massive 972-cubic-inches of core volume, it’s one of the largest on the market. They offer vertical (what we used) and horizontal intercoolers for the same cost. The horizontal unit mounts parallel to the road surface, and while it’s not quite as efficient at intercooling, compared to the vertical unit, it does allow better airflow over the radiator and AC condenser. For all out performance, go with the vertical system. If you’re concerned with maximizing cooling and AC performance opt for the horizontal arrangement.

C7 Nose 9/27

08. To install the intercooler we first had to carefully remove the C7’s nose. The process is detailed in their instruction manual and is easier than you would guess.

Intercooler Tubing 10/27

09. We then bolted the intercooler in place, making sure that it wasn’t rubbing on the AC condenser. At this point we also installed all the intercooling tubing.

Pcv Corvette System 11/27

10. Next up was more modifications to the Corvette’s PCV system. In this case, we routed the supplied 5⁄8-inch rubber hose so it would be neatly hidden under the driver side cover.

Intercooler Installed 12/27

11. With the intercooler installed, and the PCV system modified, we could then install the P-1SC-1 and bolt it to the LT1 engine. The unit just cleared the ABS module, which is exactly how ProCharger designed it. After all, it’s a pretty critical piece of equipment and not having to mess with it was one of the number one priorities when designing the kit.

Procharger Blower Crank Pulley 13/27

12. The ProCharger blower crank pulley used a super cool cam-lock system to keep everything secured and happy. It’s hard to show in pictures, but when installing them it all made sense. All six fasteners received a dab of Loctite 272 thread locker.

Crank Pulley Install 14/27

13. Installing the crank pulley was one of the tougher aspects of the kit. The Reader’s Digest version is we loosened the steering rack, the K-member, and sway bar bolts. We then used temporary spacers, and a prybar, between the frame and K-member to raise things so we could access the front of the stock crank pulley. The blower belt is a dedicated system and doesn’t drive any of the other engine accessories.

Crank Pulley 15/27

14. With the crank pulley installed, we routed the blower belt. The belt was tensioned by using a 1⁄2-inch deep-socket to turn the brass collar counterclockwise until the marks lined up per the instruction manual. We tightened down the pivot bolt (directly below the brass collar) to lock the system in place.




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