28. After installing the new pump, the next step was wiring in the fuel pump controller for the EZ-EFI system. First, the gray wire on the factory fuel pump harness is cut, then the red wire from the EZ-EFI harness we ran to the back is spliced into the gray wire going into the tank. Now the new EFI system will control the power supply to the pump. The rest of the factory harness stays in place, as it still handles the signal for the fuel gauge in the dash.
29. With the fuel system finished, we installed the included O2 sensor in the factory exhaust location, then plugged it into the EZ-EFI harness.
30. Along with the new distributor and coil, we also installed a set of Performance Distributors' LiveWires plug wires. They come pre cut to length, terminated, and have heat resistant fiberglass sleeving to keep them from getting melted near hot exhaust manifolds and the like.
31. The ECM has to be hooked directly to the battery for constant power so the computer doesn't reset when the key is off. To keep things neat, we ran the main power wire from the ECM under the factory radiator shroud, across to the battery.
32. Pretty straightforward, the power wire hooks directly to the positive battery terminal.
33. Because our Camaro had a two-barrel TBI unit, the factory throttle cable and transmission TV cable wouldn't work on the new FAST throttle body (too short). Another easy solution, we called Lokar, and got their Hi-Tech Throttle Cable (part no. TC-1000HT), throttle cable bracket and springs (part no. SRK-4000), and 700-R4 kickdown kit (part no. KD-2700HT).
34. Before installing the new TV cable, this retaining collar must be installed, along with the O-rings on the end of the tube so fluid doesn't leak out.
35. When installing the TV cable, you have to first install this end into the hook lever in the hole. Word of advice here: Installing the TV cable on a third-gen is usually easier if you lower the trans some. Once the nub is locked in place, then the cable housing is pressed in, and the bolt on the retaining collar tightened. Then the other end of the cable is fed up to the throttle body.
36. To install the throttle cable, the collar on the engine end must be removed, so the cable can be taken out.
37. This retaining collar must be removed from the factory throttle cable (on the pedal end) and installed on the new throttle cable.
38. Once it's secure, then it's hooked to the factory gas pedal like so. Then the cable is run through the factory hole in the firewall. We used a pair of big washers to help cover the hole on the firewall when we tightened everything up, as the diameter of the Lokar cable is much smaller than the factory one.
39. After measuring and trimming down the cable to fit our throttle body, each end was collared, then the appropriate connector attached. The bottom cable is the transmission TV cable, the upper the gas pedal cable. Once attached, we got in the car and made sure we had full pedal travel, and that it returned to the no throttle position with no issues.
40. The Lokar cable bracket attaches on the left rear side of the throttle body, instead of on the intake manifold bolts like the factory cable bracket. It also came with the necessary return springs, as seen here attached.
41. Our old battery was toast. For a replacement, we contacted Optima for one of their rock solid, super dependable red top batteries. With 730 cold cranking amps, even on the coldest Florida days (laughing as we say this) it'll have no problems starting our small-block. Actually, heat is a bigger problem for batteries than cold, and Optimas are built to be reliable.
42. With power hooked up, we could plug in the EZ-EFI handheld programmer, and set the engine parameters in the computer. Just follow the steps on the screen, they're self explanatory and easy to understand.
43. With the ECM programmed with our engine's base parameters, we turned the key, and after a few cranks the 350 came to life. We checked the fuel lines for any leaks, and the gauge on the fuel pressure regulator to make sure we had plenty going to the injectors.
44. And there you have it. All that's left is to take the Camaro for a short spin so the EZ-EFI's adaptive learning computer can read all the data coming from the various sensors and “learn” what is the optimal air/fuel settings for our engine, along with all the other parameters. Don't be alarmed if your car doesn't run well at first, this is normal. It takes the EZ-EFI system a short period of driving time to make its settling in adjustments. You'll quickly notice the engine smoothing out and running better as the process takes place. When it's all done, you'll have a happily purring, EFI equipped engine. Watch for part two next month when we dyno test our Camaro, and play around with the EZ-EFI's custom settings to try and get more power.