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El Camino Engine Bay - Cherry Bay
Setting The Grounds For A Clean Install
May 1, 2008
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El Camino Engine Bay - Cherry Bay
We rolled the ol' Camino into the street, and it was there we got a cold, hard look at what 42 years of road buildup can do to the framerails and inner fenders. We wanted to not only dissolve all the grime, but also remove and pick away all the undercoating. It's ugly and gross-and it had to go.
We prepared a 1:1 (50/50) mix of Oil Eater degreaser formula and water. It comes in a gallon jug, and we used nearly all of it. Tougher jobs could call for using straight degreaser to cut through the oil. Utilizing a spray bottle, we liberally soaked the entire engine bay. This included inner fenders, firewall, subframe, and steering components. Removing the front fenders and front suspension will net you even more admittance, especially to the outer framerails of the car. Degrease any areas that will be painted. Once it was sprayed, we let the formula do its job-waiting about 20 minutes-then resprayed.
After a thorough soaking, it was time to get the real elbow grease started. There was no easy way about it; we jumped in the engine bay armed with putty knives-you could use a screwdriver or any sort of flat scraping implement-and began the long process of removing the grime and muck.
Next, after some scraping, we fired up the power washer, threw on some safety goggles, stuck on the sheeting nozzle, and washed off the mess. If a pressure washer isn't available, any high-pressure garden hose will work.
After sufficiently washing away most of the oil and grease buildup, we called in some heavy-duty removing equipment: an electric grinding wire wheel. The tough stuff that doesn't come off with the power washer or the degreasing will most certainly be removed with the wire wheel. We spun the wheel over everything-focusing on the framerails and the crossmember, giving the metal a shiny, smooth finish.
Paint won't stick to rust, so it's crucial to remove it all. Scotch-Brite pads are great for sanding everywhere we planned on painting. Long lasting and cheap, they create a bristling action when you sand with them. They're also coarse enough to cut through old paint and create a clean, blemish-free surface to paint on. We picked up about six pads for the whole job.
We didn't bother preparing the A-arms, brake lines, the exhaust, the master cylinder, or the transmission. Instead, we removed most of it because it's going to eventually be replaced. To access the top of the crossmember, we unbolted the four bolts and removed the motor mounts and got those out of the way.
When the entire engine bay area was completely clean and free of any last clinging grime, we blew it off and wiped it down to remove any debris. Next, we masked off the area to paint with paper and tape and laid a sheet of plastic on the ground under where we were going to paint. Because the car will be fogged shortly, we weren't very concerned with overspray. To make the job a little easier, the hood can always be removed to gain easier access to crevices and hard-to-reach areas.
For complete coverage of the bare engine bay, we used three cans of gray primer, one can for each side of the bay and one last coat to finish it off. We started spraying at the top of each fender and worked our way down until we met up with the crossmember. We repeated the process on the other side, maintaining a 10- to 12-inch distance while laying down the paint. At this point, we decided it would be a good idea to let the primer coat dry overnight before attempting the final coat.
The next day, we could begin laying down the coats of black paint. Because this paint must endure the heat of the motor, we picked up four cans of Duplicolor's high-heat flat black paint. We used the 1,200-degree-F stuff, but the 500-degree paint would have provided adequate protection and coverage as well. Just as before, we swept from top to bottom and began with the fenders. For cold or overcast days, a drop light will help speed up the drying.
Four cans later, this engine bay is looking pretty snazzy. Even though it doesn't have an exact OEM look, we dare say it looks even better. Now, if we could only get the rest of the car to come out just as well, but that'll be a project for another day.
Cheap Paint Gun
While painting, control is everything, and long periods of spraying can leave your fingers fatigued. A cool trick is to pick up one of these Eazy paint guns from a local auto parts store. They clip right to the tip of the paint cans and allow efficient management of the paint. Paint sweeps become smoother, and the spray will flow out more evenly.
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Chevy Tech: Wheel Restoration - Every part of the car is important, and the wheels are no exception, in the least. Learn how to keep yours clean. - Super Chevy Magazine
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