11 Our system already had a long-rod booster in it. If yours is a short-rod, the CPP kit comes with the adapter/extender so you won't have any problems.
12 Before mounting the master cylinder, we attached the new front disc/rear drum calibrated proportioning valve. For drum brakes, the valve is mounted down low by the frame. For discs, it's mounted up near the master cylinder. This is why the kit includes new, pre-bent hard lines.
13 The new master bolts right up to our existing power booster.
14 Next, we pulled out all our old drum brake hard lines.
15 Then installed our new disc hard lines. You might have to bend the new lines a little to get them lined up properly, but that's normal.
16 Next up was this big line that runs from the driver's side all the way over to the passenger side. We unbent the line, then followed the factory routing to run it over to the right side flex hose.
17 The passenger side line hooks into the front of the proportioning valve. Again, you might have to bend this one a little for it to line up.
18 Here's where the long line hooks into on the passenger side.
19 Using the bleeder kit included with the master cylinder, we bled the master out first.
20 After the master was bled, we hooked the lines up, and bled the brakes at all four corners.
21 Here's how our finished system looks. We now have great stopping power that'll let us really push the car to its limits in testing.
22 The CPP disc kit wouldn't work with our factory 14-inch steel wheels, so we called our friends at Coker Tire and ordered up a set of 15x7-inch Rallye wheels in silver powder coat, with disc brake center caps, wrapped in Coker/BFG redline 225/70 radials. It was amazing the difference the Rallye wheels made in the car's appearance. And the Coker BF Goodrich Redline radials not only give us a classic factory look, but also the driving and handling benefits of a modern radial tire. We can't wait to hit the street!