If you’ve got a fifth-gen Camaro, we know at some point you’ve dropped the hammer and lit those rear tires up in an outburst of adrenaline junky fun. Don’t lie, don’t look away, we know who you are. No one buys a new Camaro to just drive it like some boring, mundane conveyance that has no character. That’s not you!
To make burning up those rear tires easier, especially if you’ve got a manual trans car, why not install a roll stop/line lock kit? These are especially useful for when you do burnouts and stage at the dragstrip, but let’s face it: roll stop kits can be fun and useful on the street. Of course, we’d never endorse nor condone such illegal behavior. But we’ve heard it happens.
Used predominantly in drag racing, a roll stop (also referred to as line lock) holds the front brakes even when the brake pedal isn’t depressed. This helps when doing a burnout to heat up and clean off the rear tires, and at the starting line while staging the car and brining the engine up while waiting for the green light. Roll stops are especially handy in manual trans cars, since the universe only gave us two feet to work three pedals.
Even better, they’re super easy to install. We recently installed a TCI Camaro Roll Stop kit (part no. 861735) in a 2010 Camaro SS, and including our trip to the parts store to grab a couple of things, it only took us an hour and half to install on the six-speed manual car. The kit retails for about $165, so it’s budget friendly too.
Follow along and we’ll show you how easy it is to add this simple mod to your fifth-gen.
1. The first step is disconnecting the hydraulic line for the front brakes. On a fifth-gen Camaro, the rear line on the master cylinder is for the front brakes.
2. Here’s our TCI roll stop kit, part no. 861735. It includes everything necessary for a typical installation.
3. This coupler line (included with kit) is pre-bent to install on the fifth-gen Camaro. It goes between the roll stop solenoid and the master cylinder.
4. The roll stop/line lock solenoid works by not allowing the pressure in the brakes lines from applying the pedal to release, holding the front brakes locked even when your foot is off the brake pedal.
5. Install the coupler line on the solenoid in this orientation. If you install the line on the master cylinder first, you won’t be able to get the solenoid into position next to the master cylinder.
6. After bolting the included mounting bracket to the solenoid, we slipped it into place on the passenger side of the master cylinder.
7. The mounting bracket bolts to the stud that holds the master cylinder on the power booster. Once secured, the factory line for the front brakes is plumbed into the solenoid, and the coupler line into the master cylinder.
8. Time to hook up power. The red/positive wire from the solenoid is run to the positive battery cable stud.
9. Using the included connector (blue wiring coupler in photo) attach the black wire extension included in the kit to the ground wire on the solenoid. Then run the wire through one of the factory holes in the firewall and into the passenger cabin.
10. Once everything is set in the engine compartment, use the included conduit to cover up the solenoid wires and the coupler line. This cleans up the install so it looks factory and blends in.
11. This is the activator switch for the kit. It’s a simple, push button binary switch that can be mounted just about anywhere. The one downside to the included switch is it requires a hole be drilled somewhere in the interior to mount it. Since the button needs to be easily accessible and within arm’s reach while you’re behind the wheel, the center console near the shifter is the logical place. But the car’s owner didn’t really want to drill a hole in his center console.
12. After some brainstorming, we figured out a solution. A quick run to the parts store and we came back with a two-wire trailer light coupling, a different button switch, and a universal lighter plug. First step was wiring the white wire on the plug into the black ground wire coming from the solenoid. We cut off the other wire from the plug, as it was unnecessary.
13. Using a terminal connector, we crimped this end onto the other plug.
14. Then we connected the wire to our new button switch.
15. On the ground wire for the lighter plug we got, we crimped on another hoop connector.
16. Next we connected that wire to the other terminal on our new switch…
17. … and plugged our new “harness” together.
18. Here’s what we ended up with, our new button switch harness. The lighter plug goes into the lighter outlet by the shifter, completing our ground circuit so the solenoid will work, and thanks to the two wire plug we installed, when not needed all we have to do is unplug the switch, stash it in the glove compartment, then tuck away our other wire, and no one would ever know our 2010 Camaro even has a roll stop installed. Best of all, we didn’t have to drill any holes in our interior panels.
19. When plugged in, here’s what we’ve got. The larger button switch makes it easy to hold in the hand while using the shifter, with a large button that’s quick to push with the free thumb.
20. And the end result is this: Effortless burnouts and tire -smoking fun!