I have an '85 Corvette. This car runs and drives as it should, but driving this car for a while, I get a heavy fuel smell. There are no leaks. It seems to be coming from the tank because when I loosen the gas cap it will vent fuel vapors for at least 45 seconds. Almost for one full minute this thing is hissing vapors at a loud volume. One spark and its over. Please give me some advice on my mobile Molotov cocktail. I have tried a new cap. Same thing. When this happens, it also seems to make the engine crank way too long before firing. But in the morning when its cold, if fires on half a crank. Please advise.
It's sounds as though the tank is somehow not venting properly. To be honest, I had an injected Firebird stocker a few years back that I ran with the gas cap loose all the time for similar reasons. My first take would be to drive the car with the cap loose and see if the problem subsides. If so, then you've got to decide how much you want to do to "fix" the problem. Obviously, the tank would need to come down to find out why the vent is blocked. That said, a small hole drilled in the cap would most likely provide sufficient venting.
Bird Is The Word
I bought a '67 Firebird from a guy and I did not stop to ask a lot of questions because I wanted it so bad. Well, he told me it had a 327 Chevy in it and a Muncie four-speed. When I got it home and really looked, it had a '72 Chevy 350. This is where I need your help. I know it's not a Camaro and that this is Super Chevy, but it is a '67 GM musclecar with a four-speed. My buddy has a '78 Z28 with the 10-bolt. Will it bolt up to my '67? And does anyone make the right engine mounts to properly install the 350?
As for the rear, yes and no... It will bolt up, but the perches will have to be relocated. Additionally, it is slightly longer than the correct year housing. If it were me, I would probably be looking for a more suitable candidate. As for the engine mounts, if it has a Chevy motor in it, I would think the correct mounts would have had to been used for it to be there. The frame has the same holes as a Camaro. Small-block Chevy engine mounts and frame mounts for a '67-'69 Camaro are all that are required.
What Is This Thing?
I purchased a '55 Chevy 150 Handyman with what I was told was a GM Goodwrench crate 350. The block number is 10066036, heads number 88417369, and on the front of the block-stamped in the lip behind the alternator-are the numbers and letters 2M1030 6VP. Can you tell me anything about this motor? I've tried researching this myself but have come up empty. Any help you can give me would be greatly appreciated.
Spring Hill, Florida
The engine block casting number, which is located on the bellhousing flange behind the driver's side cylinder head, confirms that you do in fact have a 350 Goodwrench crate motor. It was produced in Mexico and could be either two- or four-bolt mains with a normal deck and a two-piece rear seal. It appears as though it was cast on 10/30/94. I haven't been able to do much with the cylinder head number you listed, but other things I've read seem to indicate the motor was produced with a 993 casting. That would be a large chamber, 76cc, 1.94 intake, 1.50 exhaust, with a 8.5:1 compression ratio.
My husband and I both have '71 Camaros. We have a 4-year-old daughter who loves riding in our cars. Problem is, she is too big for her car seat and needs to be in a booster seat. Our Camaros do not have shoulder belts, which you need for the booster seat. Is there a bolt on kit we can buy, or can we go to the junkyard and get the belts off a newer model? Her safety is very important and she loves going for fast rides.
I'm afraid you're going to have to rely on good old American ingenuity on this one. I spoke with Camaro specialty shops, as well as both Summit and Jegs, and no one I've been able to locate produces such an item. I probably need to tread lightly here-insurance, liability, etc.-but I would think a reasonably intelligent, somewhat mechanically inclined person could come up with a simple and safe system to accomplish what you're looking for.
As I've now learned, shoulder belts became mandatory starting January 1, 1968. So, I would hit the scrapyards looking for '68 through early '70s Chevrolets that had belts and buckles that matched yours. I'd remove the rear seat and attach the upper mount for the shoulder harness to the exposed frame, making sure to use good hardware with proper surface area clamping. You can then simply route the harness over the top of the seat, and I would think you could use the existing lower mounting feature to add another buckle for attachment. In my research, I found this to be interesting: www.camaros.org/options.shtml
How Wide For My Ride?
I just bought an unmolested '67 Nova SS. It has a Heidt's front end with disc brakes. It also has 14-inch rally wheels and I would love to put a set of Cragar SS wheels with redline tires on it. It has stock fenderwells in the rear and I would like to know what offset would allow what size tire to fit. Any info would help.
I spoke with local tire guru D.J. Raiser at Tread City Tire in Buffalo for a little insight into your question. He suggested a 15x7 wheel with zero offset, both front and back. Up front, go with a 215/70/15, and go a little larger in the rear with a 225/70/15. As for the redlines, check 'em out, as well as other antique and classic tires at www.cokertires.com. You can get redlines as radials here.
I have a '66 Chevy II 327 four-speed and I am thinking about putting in an LS2 with my four-speed. Will the bellhousing flywheel fit? If not could you suggest a donor car type and year?
Please don't think me too forward, but if you're putting in an LS2 motor and you're a stick shift kind of guy, why not just roll with the six-speed T56? I realize it's most likely all about the Benjamins (at least it is with me.) Try to buy the whole shooting match out of a wreck-motor, transmission, computer, wiring harness-get it all. For example, and obviously the auction will be over when you read this, but I'm sure there will be more like it: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2005-GTO-LS2-engine-w-6-speed-trans- Complete-1K-RARE_W0QQ itemZ180243537066QQ cmdZViewItem
As for your four-speed, the bellhousing will somewhat bolt up. The LS series has eight holes, and five will line up with a older style trans. The proper six-speed (or auto, for that matter) will actually have two bolts that go into the oil pan. But, to answer your question, I believe you can physically go with an old school Muncie or Borg-Warner.
How Many Horses?
I own a '71 Chevelle with the original 350 (rebuilt). I've been given different estimates of how much horsepower it's making, so I'd like to see how much you think it's got. The block is bored .060 over with the original crankshaft and rods. The pistons are flat-top and Teflon-coated with file fit rings. It has a Comp Cams camshaft (PN 12-238-2): lift: intake-.462, exhaust-.469. The pushrods and rockers are new; the rockers are the stock 1.5:1 ratio. The heads are the original castings (same castings as LT-1) and now have the larger LT-1 valves (stainless) as well. The heads were milled and had some minor improvements done. The overall compression is supposed to be about 10:1. On top, there's an Edelbrock Performer and a 600-cfm Edelbrock carburetor. The exhaust passes through Hooker headers with 1 5/8-inch primaries and 3-inch collectors and into 2.5-inch Flowmaster pipes (including an H-pipe) and mufflers. Also, would roller rockers and/or rockers with a higher ratio significantly increase this engine's performance?
My educated guess is 300 to 325 hp. Gary Hettler at Eaton Enterprises told me that sounded like a reasonable estimation. As for the roller rockers, you won't really see a performance gain, just better reliability. A different ratio, on the other hand, could definitely help. Significantly, I guess, depends on your perspective
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