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Milodon Oil Pan System - Added Protection
Milodon's Complete Oil System Provides Better Oiling
Apr 1, 2003
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Milodon Oil Pan System - Added Protection
Here is a complete oiling system from Milodon. The new kick-out oil pan will allow for an extra quart of oil and keep all of it in the bottom of the pan. The high-pressure/high-volume oil pump will guarantee constant pressure. We also used a new windage tray and oil pump baffle to keep oil where it belongs-in the sump. The new windage tray required our using Milodon's special main bearing cap studs.
We did the entire job on the ground, so make sure that the car is safely mounted on jackstands. We were able to remove all the pan bolts and drop the pan out because the K-member in this car was notched. In most cases you will have to slightly lift the front of the motor. With the pan removed, you can see the stock oil pump and windage tray. This is a late-model GM crate motor. Some applications may not have one from the factory.
From here we removed the nuts from the stock windage tray. You will want to leave the oil pump on until the hardware from the tray is removed. Once the tray is loose, the oil pump is removed and the tray will lower with it. This will expose all of the studs that will need to be removed.
It is necessary to remove all of the stock studs and a few bolts. These will be replaced with Milodon's studs which are completely threaded to accept the new windage tray. The instructions tell you exactly what original bolts to remove so you don't have to loosen them all.
With all the old studs and bolts removed you can now install the new studs. Make sure you use a little assembly oil on all of the threads. You will want to screw these in completely by hand. DO NOT DOUBLE NUT AND USE A WRENCH TO TIGHTEN THESE DOWN!
All the studs are installed. Notice where the bolts were removed and studs were installed. Make sure that you do this step by hand and that all the studs dead stop in the holes. Once the studs were in place, it was time to install the new nuts. These have their own tapered washers that must be used. Next, torque the nuts to 35 ft-lb to make sure they all sit evenly. Then, go back and torque them to 70 ft-lb. This will ensure that all the caps are even.
Once the studs were tight, we screwed on the nuts for the windage tray. These nuts will set the height for where the windage tray will be positioned. You must make sure that they are all set at the same place.
We set the nuts, with the serrated washer facing down, all with 3/8 inch of thread exposed. From here you will need to set the tray up there and rotate the engine to make sure that the tray does not hit the throws of the crank.
With the windage tray correctly set in place we proceeded to assemble the oil pump and pickup. The pickup will slide into the pump and its bracket will line up with the lower bolt hole on the oil pump, so you don't have to weld the pickup to the bolt. A 5/8-inch open-end wrench can be used to knock the press-fit tube into the pump's body.
With the pickup in place we reinstalled the bolt for the oil pump, which secures the pickup and tube assembly to the pump's body. Using a little thread sealer doesn't hurt here.
From here we needed to grind on the pan baffle for it to fit correctly under the oil pump and fit the contour of the inside rear of the pan. What this little plate does is keep the oil from climbing up the back of the pan and getting on the crank. It sandwiches between the oil pump and the oil pump-mounting boss on the rear main cap.
Here you see the old (left) and the new oil pump. The new pump uses a metal sleeve to properly stay coupled to the oil pump and the rod that connects the pump to the bottom of the distributor. The stock pump has a plastic sleeve. By not using the metal sleeve that is supplied, you will damage the pump.
With the pan baffle in place the pump rod must slide up through the hole in the baffle. It is easiest to do this with the rod attached to the oil pump.
Once the oil pump was in place over the pan baffle, we had to set the windage tray in place. As you can see here, the tray goes under the oil pump bolt, over the pump. This will hold the tray up in the back, but getting it all in place can be tricky.
With the back of the tray secure, the rest of the windage tray is pushed into place. When the tray was evenly located on the studs, we tightened the oil pump and threaded on all of the nuts.
Notice with the tray in place that the farthest stud back on the driver-side is exposed (arrow). The hole is an extra-large hole so oil can drain straight down to the pump. When all the nuts are in place, they are torqued to 35 ft-lb. The upper nut will work as a jamb nut to keep the tray securely fastened. When everything is torqued and tightened, it should all look like this. This motor will now have zero problems keeping constant oil pressure, no matter how hard it goes around a corner.
The final part is the nicely formed, extra-capacity oil pan. Milodon plates all of their pans with a gold irridite process to protect the material from corroding. It not only does the job but also looks good in the process.
Milodon Oil Pan System - Super Chevy Magazine
To keep an engine alive and running strong, it is good to upgrade the stock oiling pan and that is why we suggest Milodon's Oil Pan System to pro-long your engine's life. - Super Chevy Magazine
Milodon Oil Pan Install - Chevy High Performance Magazine
Check out the step-by-step install of a Milodon windage tray, oil pick-up & pan, only at Chevy High Performance Magazine.
2012 SEMA Show - New Chevy Performance Products - Super Chevy Magazine
Here are the top new Chevy performance products we saw at the 2012 SEMA show! Take a look at a fuel tank from Aeromotive for your '67-'67 Camaro or the H Sport Wheel from Hotchkis.
Oil System Tech From Top Industry Insiders - Chevy High Performance Magazine
Check out this oil system tech from the top industry leaders. Read about the advice they have only at www.chevyhiperformance.com, the official website for Chevy High Performance Magazine!
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