Next, you take a razor blade and etch the paint on the inner lip approximately 1/8 inch to the inside of the fenderwell, just inside the painted body surface. This procedure will greatly reduce the possibility of paint chipping away-something to give careful consideration with GM's notorious "water" paint jobs-on the outside of the fenderwell when the lip is being rolled.
With that done you place the Jimmy on the arc of the lip and gently pry the sheetmetal upward. It is highly recommended that you move the tool back and forth across the surface area of the lip, starting from the leading edge of the tire, working your way to the trailing edge of the tire.
You use the Jimmy to initially bend the lip slightly while progressively moving on to the next section. By doing this, you can work your way back and forth over the section, gradually bending the lip a bit further each time you pass across the area. With the Jimmy approximately three to four "passes" are all that's necessary to achieve the desired results.
Once the fender lip rolling process has been completed, you will need to finish the job using a regular flat hammer like a body-working hammer. While you are doing this, it is highly recommended that you place your hand on the outside of the fender to "feel" the motion of the hammer. Gradually work your way back and forth across the fender lip until you get the desired effect.
Once the bending process is completed, you can peel away what remains of the old paint. After that, routine sanding is required, followed by the spraying of either touch-up paint, or better yet, a high-quality, spray undercoat. Then it's time to bring on those fat 20-inch wheels and tires! Now follow along with us as we watch Chicane's Joe Gosinski and Renee Barba performing a little wheel well magic on this late-model Camaro.