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How to Remove Stuck Fuel Filters from Rusty Fuel Lines

Technically Speaking

James Berry Apr 13, 2017 0 Comment(s)
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Q: I enjoy your magazine, but I missed the memo about replacing my fuel filter every 30,000 miles. To be honest, my C4 Corvette has over 90,000 miles on it and I have never replaced the fuel filter and I think it has become restricted.

While in the process of trying to change out the fuel filter I noticed the filter and threaded fitting were rusty. I sprayed the fittings with penetrating oil and I am using an open-end wrench on the fuel filter side and a tubing wrench (line wrench) on the fuel line fitting side. I cannot get the line to come loose from the fuel filter. However, I was able to remove the skin from my knuckles.

I know parts are getting harder and harder to get for C4 Corvettes so I do not want to damage the metal line or fitting so any help or suggestions for this problem would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Peter Glidewell

A: I have seen many C4 Corvettes (and other vehicles) with rust on the fuel filter near the threaded fitting, usually on the top side of the filter. The air-conditioning condensation drain will sometimes drip on top of the filter causing them to rust over time.

One of the biggest frustrations when disassembling a part on a vehicle is the dreaded seized hardware due to rust. Stuck hardware occurs when a bolt or nut gets corrosion between the threads and they won’t budge. Many times this leads to breaking the bolt off or stripped hardware.

There are several options when dealing with a rust problem. I am going to cover the general removal of rusty hardware before we get into the C4 Corvette with the stuck fuel filter.

First of all I am going to share some of my father’s favorite tricks for removing rusted fittings or bolts that I have used during my career in the automotive industry. (My dad would be so excited his tricks are actually being published.) Since you have already tried the penetrating oil method and bloodied your knuckles with no luck. Let’s try a few other methods.

First, use some Brakleen to remove all the oils and contaminants from the component and use compressed air to blow it dry. If you do not have compressed air let it dry naturally. The penetrating oil will prevent the next step from doing its job.

Spray some water on the rusty component and let it sit for about 15 minutes. (Yes, water.)

The water activates the rust, and if you think about it that’s what made it in the first place. Water, in my experience, works better on some rusty components than rust penetrants.

After 15 minutes give the rusty nut or fitting several sharp raps using a hammer and a flat punch, reapply water and let it sit for about 15 minutes.

Try to loosen the component. I recommend you not use constant force but rather blunt impact/force. This is an important step when attempting to loosen any stubborn bolts. Strike the wrench to try and loosen the fastener.

If the bolt becomes loose but it is still tight try to rock the bolt. Slowly work the bolt or nut back and forth. Take your wrench and loosen the fastener until you feel tension behind it. Then go back the other way until you feel tension. As the bolt or nut becomes lose you want to spray some penetrating oil on the component to help the process.

If the water does not work there’re a few other old-time mechanics tricks my father taught me. One involves using straight vinegar or brake fluid, or even a 50/50 mix of transmission fluid and acetone, but be careful of the fumes acetone can produce. (Note: Do not let any of these products get on any painted surface as they all will damage the paint.)

Spray the stuck hardware and let it sit. Then again use the blunt impact (force) method and try to remove the stuck bolt or fitting.

There’s always the old heating and cooling method. The expansion and contraction that comes with heating and cooling can break a fastener loose from rust. With a handheld propane torch, heat-up the bolt head until it turns red hot and while it’s still red-hot, squirt it with water.

Repeat the heating and cooling process several times with the torch and water. When using the heating and cooling method be sure to follow proper safety procedures. Wear proper safety attire, including welder’s gloves and safety goggles and have a fire extinguisher within arm’s reach.

Do not use this method near any fuel source, including fuel lines, painted surfaces, or near anything that could cause an explosion or fire. If needed, when the bolt is hot you can apply paraffin wax to help coat the threads of the bolt. Make sure the wax is able to run down into the threads. Remember, too much heat can destroy the temper of a fastener so after heating any fasteners they should be replaced.

Now let’s get back to the C4 with the stuck fuel filter. If none of these tricks worked, you may need to remove the fuel lines to gain better access to the top stuck fitting.

After installing the fuel filter nut in a vice, use a line wrench while tapping the wrench with a hammer to loosen the fuel fitting off of what’s left of the fuel filter.

If the nut on the fuel line is becoming rounded off, you may need to install the fuel line nut in the vice and try and remove what is left of the fuel filter nut.

If this does not work you may be forced to replace the fuel line.

By the way, make sure you are turning the fastener the correct way. Most mechanics learn the rhyme “Righty-Tighty, Lefty-Loosey.” You would be surprised at how many people still get their directions confused when working in a reversed or upside down position. Well, I hope this helps you get some of those rusty fasteners out, if this works for you or you have some other tricks let us know.

Fuel Lines 2/4

Remove the fuel lines from the top of the engine.

Corvette Fuel Lines 3/4

Also, remove the fuel lines from the lower section by the fuel filter if these components are not too rusty.

Corvette Fuel Filter 4/4

Break the fuel filter off near the inlet and install what is remaining of the fuel filter nut into a vice.

Photography by the Author

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