Got a restoration question that’s been puzzling you? Send it to: [ m ] Super Chevy, Resto Tech, 9036 Brittany Way, Tampa, FL 33619. [ e ] email@example.com [ f ] 813/675-3559
I have a 1968 Chevelle convertible that needs a floor and braces. The rockers are solid. I was planning on taking the body off to put on a rotisserie. Also planning on using 1x1 tubing for bracing. Any help as where to put the bracing for the body so it doesn’t turn into a pretzel? Any articles or pictures will be appreciated.
A long time reader
Good question. It would depend on the condition of the floor pan and braces. If the floor pan or braces are toast, I would replace those components first while it was on the frame, or as much as you can. The floor pan is critical in holding the body in alignment when lifting it from the pan. Final welding for the pan can certainly be completed once the body is on the rotisserie. If the floor and braces were in good shape, and if it were a hardtop, lifting it off the frame and bolting it to the rotisserie would be straightforward with little or no bracing required. Since it’s a convertible, I would highly recommend putting bracing between the door jamb and the door hinge posts. Welding plates on the ends of the tubing to bolt at the door jamb striker plate and both upper and lower door hinge mounting points should do the trick. The set up should look like a triangle between the jamb and hinge mounts. Make sure both left and right side are custom fitted individually as the dimension between the sides may be a little different. Pretty straightforward operation. Good luck with your ’68 project.
Thanks for the technical information you guys provide in your magazine. I am currently rebuilding a 1971 Malibu and have identified the numbers on most of the car’s components. So far just about every part that has a factory code has been identified as being factory correct. I can’t find anything on the alternator number however The numbers on the unit are 1100843 and 1J22. Can you tell me if the alternator belongs on his car?
Sounds like a worthy project, Mike. Love that body style. You can usually match the alternator code to the rest of your codes by comparing the build dates. In your case, the 1100843 indicates a 71 Chevelle with factory AC and was built on September 22 1971. 1 = 1971. J = September. 22 = the 22nd day of September. This unit is good for 61 amps for a/c cars. If your Chevelle has factory ac, I would say it’s a match.
Window Pane Pain
I have a ‘67 Nova and do not have any idea on how to remove the front and rear window glass. The rear window is in good shape and I hope to save this, as this was a one-owner car. Can you please do an article on how to remove and replace the front windshield and rear deck glass?
It depends on who you talk to, Bobby, but you can either cut the butyl seal that holds the glass in with a sharp knife until the glass can be pushed out, or you can use a braided wire to literally saw through the sealer. Using a hot ice pick or awl you can poke a hole in the adhesive along side of the glass to thread a braided wire through from the outside to the inside and use a gentle sawing motion to saw all around the glass until it is loose. A guitar string with a wood dowel on each end for handles works well. Be careful not to cut into the glass as it may break. Using a sharp knife to slowly cut the adhesive is the safest way, but is very time consuming compared to using the wire method. When you are ready to reinstall the glass, Classic Industries sells a neat roll of adhesive material that can be rolled out instead of using the messy caulking tube method. The part number for the adhesive tape is K4122 and Classic Industries can be reached at 800/854-1280 or on line at www.classicindustries.com.
I’m a long time subscriber and an even longer Chevelle owner. I enjoy reading your magazine. Can you help me find out what the info stamped into my cowl tag means? I have an old Chevrolet Hobby Shop Past Model Information booklet that helps me with some, but not all of the codes.
The first line under BODY BY FISHER is 05B.
The second line is ST = Style 68-13837 (1968 Chevelle Super Sport), ATL (Atlanta plant), 10391 BODY.
The third line is TR 765 (black bench interior trim), H2 PAINT. My book says HH is Grecian green, PP is Seafrost green, and VV is Sequoia green. I know the car was originally green from the overspray I found when I did the interior.
The letters in the passenger side of the engine block are ED, 396/325 HP/ 3 or 4-speed manual.
Is there a way I can find out if my car came originally with a vinyl roof?
Any help you can give me about the unknowns would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
No problem, Ed. Most of the trim tag you have correct, including the engine numbers. Here is the info you are missing.
First line 05B = Body build date. 05 = Built May. B = Built 2nd week of May
Second line = ST = Style
10391 stands for body sequence number used by factory for tracking. No correlation to VIN number.
Vinyl tops were ordered under RPO codes from dealer. Unless you have a build sheet or other documentation, it’s hard to prove a vinyl top either way. If you had the original build sheet the RPO code would be CO8 for black or white vinyl top.