Tip of the Month
A recent problem with stainless steel header bolts prompted this month’s tip. Evidently, the last gentleman who assembled my latest project failed to use anti-seize compound on the stainless steel bolts holding the headers to the cast-iron cylinder heads. (No less than four bolts removed the threads from the heads when backed out.) Stainless steel in its many forms and alloy content is great for corrosion and rust resistance, but when stainless parts such as nuts and bolts are forced together, the oxide layer that naturally forms on stainless (called passivation) can be scraped off, causing the parts to weld together. When disassembled, the welded material may be torn and pitted, an effect known as galling. The best way to avoid galling is using a quality anti-seize compound sold at any auto parts store. Stainless steel is a mixture of alloys such as steel and chromium. The manufacturers usually tailor the percentage of alloy content based on the intended use. Do yourself a favor and use anti-seize compound on all stainless hardware, no matter what the application.
Can I Get An Extension?
I recently acquired a 1979 Nova hatchback, and do I have a restoration question for you. Where in the heck can I find the plastic fender extensions (besides calling every junkyard in town)? Plus, I would prefer to get some repros if they are available. Can you please help me out? Thank you.
Thanks for the curve ball, Bryan. Yes, those things are very hard to find on a regular basis. The aftermarket hasn’t caught on yet. I do see them pop up online at eBay on occasion. It may take awhile to collect a full set from either eBay or similar auction sites, but they do come up. One other source you may try is Replica Plastics at www.replicaplastics.com, or 800-873-5871. They manufacture a variety of fender extensions including the earlier Novas, and may help you with your application or even build a set for you. Give them a call and good luck.
Enjoy your magazine. I read it through my son’s subscription. I would like to comment on an article in the March 2013 edition. I work with small engines and have found E10 can be a real headache. You picture a bottle of Sta-Bil. We have found the red Sta-Bil does not deal very well with ethanol. You can get better protection using the marine version of Sta-Bil. Marine Sta-Bil lists it as an ethanol treatment; note, the red says nothing about ethanol. Remember, the marine people deal with a lot more water and damp conditions, too. As for long-term storage, it is recommended to totally drain the entire fuel system. If the system can’t be drained, then “exercise” the engine every 30 days. Hope I can help, even just one. Thanks for listening.
Thanks for your insight, Steve. It’s always a plus to get real world experience from our readers. It makes sense the marine-grade Sta-Bil does a better job dealing with water, especially in a wet environment like boats. However, according to the manufacturer, it does recommend the marine stabilizer for automotive use. They claim the red deals very well with ethanol fuels, including E-10 through E-85. Although the red is the recommended application for street cars and stationary engine situations, I can’t help but agree with you using the marine fuel system stabilizer in very wet conditions can’t hurt. Your recommendation to drain the fuel tank or exercise the engine every 30 days, in my opinion, is the best way to avoid fuel system problems. It should also be noted that a number of companies are introducing ethanol treatments. We just got a couple of bottles of AMSOIL’s Quickshot fuel stabilizer and ethanol treatment. We’ll be trying it in our staff project cars, which tend to sit far too often. A full bottle is said to clean out the entire fuel system (up to 24 gallons of fuel), while four ounces is the recommended dose for continued treatment. Check it out at www.amsoil.com.
Got a restoration question that’s been puzzling you? Send it to: [ m ] Super Chevy, Resto Tech, 9036 Brittany Way, Tampa, FL 33619 [ e ] email@example.com [ f ] 813/675-3557