13 There are three bolts above the speaker area that hold the window-regulator motor in place. Remove these nuts with a 10mm socket and set them aside for later use.
14 Depending on the lighting, it can be difficult to see the lower mounting bolt, which goes in through the bottom of the door. There’s a small black cover you’ll have to take off, after which you can remove the nut with a 10mm socket.
15 Using the speaker hole you opened up earlier, reach inside the door panel and unclip the wiring that attaches to the window regulator. Lovell is a big buy, but he got his muscly forearm in there, so mere mortals shouldn’t have any trouble. It’s a bit tough to reach, though, so take your time.
16 At this point, you can pull the entire broken assembly out through the large opening at the back of the door. You won’t be reusing any of these parts, so feel free to take out any pent-up frustration on this mess of metal.
17 The Zip Products window regulator is an almost perfect replica of the factory unit, but it costs half as much and ships almost instantly. One part number per side gets you everything you need for a complete installation.
18 There’s really no perfect way to slide the new regulator in place, so just work it into the door however you feel most comfortable. Note, of course, that you’ll need the rear track in the right place and the motor itself facing the correct way.
19 The tracks bolt up using the factory holes and come with OEM-spec studs to make for a quick and easy swap. Here you can see the rear window track and window-clamp assembly installed in the passenger-side door.
20 The lower portion of the track is adjustable, which means you can simply get the nut snugged in place for now; you’ll probably need to adjust it later.
21 The motor assembly also lines up perfectly with the existing holes and uses the same hardware to bolt into place. You’ll want to tighten these nuts down snugly, making sure not to crack the inner door panel in the process.
22 With the regulator up, slide the OEM glass back in place, being careful not to scratch it on the way in. Line it up even with the rear of the window channel and tighten it down using the Zip-provided clamps. Not too tight: It is glass, after all.
23 Using all that cash you saved by buying the Zip parts, check the tightness of the window gaps around the window. You want the glass to close properly against the window seals, but you should still be able to pull the bill out of the gap.
24 If the fit is too loose or too tight, turn the bottom window-regulator screw to adjust the gap. Set it in and out, and against the window seals, until you are happy with the fitment. You may need to take a quick drive to verify a perfect seal.
25 And just like that, you’re done. Well, except for the other window…which you’re going to do right now, aren’t you? vette