1972 Chevrolet Corvette Project Car - Seat Install, Part 2

Everything In Its Place - Installing Corbeau five-point harnesses in our ’72 coupe

Jeremy D. Clough Feb 6, 2014 0 Comment(s)
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Last month, we covered the process of bolting in a set of Corbeau’s fabulously supportive A4 seats into Scarlett, our ’72 coupe project car. As well as the seats hold onto you, though, you still have to have belts to “snug you up” into them. Since this car is destined for track use, we ordered a set of Corbeau’s five-point harnesses along with the buckets. In this installment, we’ll cover what it takes to install them in a shark.

Consisting of five straps, or points, the harnesses combine a traditional lap belt with a pair of shoulder straps and an anti-submarine belt that comes from beneath the seat in the crotch area. The latter item is intended to keep the driver from sliding out from underneath the other belts in the event of a crash. While they are available in different sizes, our harnesses have 3-inch webbing for all but the anti-submarine belt, which is 2 inches wide. They’re rated to meet SFI specification 16.1 and come date stamped, as harnesses have to be replaced periodically to be used for racing. All the belts snap into the same latch arrangement, something that’s mandated by some track rules, since you may need to get out of them fast if you wreck.

The lever or “latch and link” configuration that’s been around for some time uses a lever-operated latch. It holds the two lap belts together, and the male tab on one lap belt passes through slots on the ends of all the other belts before being latched into place in the female end of the latch on the other lap belt. The more modern approach, however, is a camlock buckle, which lets each of the belts plug into a round buckle one at a time. Like the latch-and-link, all the belts are released at the same time when you rotate the buckle. While I’m all for old-school, it’s my opinion the camlock is a better system, which is why we specified camlock buckles for our harness. They work smoothly, and their black-and-silver construction looks great and fits in aesthetically with the car’s color scheme.

What follows is a step-by-step of the harness-installation process. Once completed, all that’s left is to do is slide in, cinch up, and roll out. The car may go all sorts of interesting places, but you? You ain’t going nowhere.

Author’s note: This article contains information on mounting safety equipment. The mounting techniques we used may not be suitable for your application, and thus the author and VETTE magazine specifically disclaim any liability that may result from following these instructions. If in doubt, consult a professional as well as the rule book of the sanctioning body where you want to race.

1402 Corbeau Camlock System Round Central System 2/30

01 While the “latch and link” buckling system is still alive and well, we went with Corbeau’s camlock system, which uses a round central buckle. While each of the belts can be plugged into it separately, they are all released at once when the knob is rotated.

1402 Five Strap Harnesses 3/30

02 The five-strap harnesses combine a traditional lap belt, a pair of shoulder straps, and an anti-submarine belt. While they are available in different sizes, our harnesses have 3-inch webbing for all but the anti-submarine belt, which is 2 inches wide.

1402 Corbeau S Logo Marked Harness Pads 4/30

03 For added comfort, we also used a pair of Corbeau’s logo-marked harness pads. Made of neoprene, they wrap around the harnesses and are held in place by Velcro, so they can be installed and removed without the need to remove the harness itself.

1402 Harnesses Tab 5/30

04 The harnesses come with a tab at either end. The larger one, shown here, has a 0.5-inch hole and is used for mounting the harness in the car, while the smaller tab is the one that snaps into the camlock. Since the shoulder harnesses were mounted by wrapping them around the harness bar, we didn’t use the mounting tabs on them.

1402 Inboard Lap Belt 6/30

05 Mounting the inboard lap belt is simplicity itself: Back out the bolt holding the factory belt in place, then use a Grade 8 bolt (or, in this case, a metric equivalent) tightened to 30-45 lb-ft. Done.

1402 Outboard Lap Belt 7/30

06 To mount the outboard lap belt, remove the seats and door sill, peel back the carpet, and remove the factory seat-belt reel and its plastic cover. Snake the new harness through the seatbelt guide, then bolt the mounting tab into the old reel mount and torque it down to the factory spec of 30-45 lb-ft.

1402 Outboard Lap Belt 8/30

07 Once the outboard lap belt is bolted into place and routed under the seatbelt guide, slip it back through the carpet. Since the carpet had already been cut for the factory belt to pass through, I only had to use a razor blade to lengthen the slot in the carpet for the wider harness to fit.

1402 Shark Bar From Vetteworks 9/30

08 From the location of the shoulder harnesses, it should be obvious that they have to mount to something, and that something will not be found on the back deck (or window frame) of a stock C3. We used a Shark Bar from Vetteworks, which mounts the harnesses at the proper angle relative to your body.

1402 The Shark Bar 10/30

09 The Shark Bar provides a secure mounting point for the harnesses, and has a welded-on retainer that keeps them from sliding from side-to-side. It requires virtually no modification to install, doesn’t interfere with removing the rear window, and is available in a black-crinkle powdercoat that blends well with the car’s interior. (Other finish options are available as well.)

1402 The Shark Bar 11/30

10 Part of the Shark Bar system is a pair of lateral support anchors that, along with a strut, help brace the already-solid bar to the car’s subframe. There’s a left and a right (shown), and they’re conveniently marked as such.

1402 Window Trim And Sail Panel 12/30

11 Start by removing the window trim and sail panel, which will give you access to the part of the subframe where the lateral support anchors mount. To get all this out, you’ll basically be removing all the interior panels in the rear of the car, which sounds more daunting than it is.

1402 Rear Window Area 13/30

12 The rear-window area after the trim is removed. While you have to take it out to remove the sail panel and install the lateral support anchors, you’ll want to reinstall it before putting the Shark Bar in place—otherwise, it ain’t going back it.

1402 Removing The T Tops 14/30

13 You’ll need to remove the interior roof panels to get the sail panel out. This requires removing the T-tops to gain access to this screw near where the upper rear corner of the window would usually sit.

1402 Strip Of Trim Sail Panel 15/30

14 The sail panel is also held in place with this strip of trim found inside the door openings. If you’re envisioning a lot of small interior screws lying around, you’ve got it right.

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