11 Reinstall the assembly in the reverse order of removal, and your new ignition cylinder is ready for action.
12 Pulling the glovebox cylinder is a piece of punschkrapfen by comparison. Just use an adjustable wrench to lightly wiggle the back of the mechanism until the bezel (which also serves as the nut) is loose enough to unscrew.
13 Out with the old, in with the new, and you’re ready to move on to the doors.
14 Start by twisting off the lock knob, then remove the three screws that hold the upper door panel in place.
15 Next comes the lower panel, which is secured with its own set of six screws. Don’t forget to also unscrew the white knob on the door-opening mechanism.
16 Allow the lower panel to swing down out of the way (there’s no need to completely remove it), exposing the black panel over the lock compartment.
17 The panel is held in with nine screws (or fewer: ours was missing two of them). Remove these to access the inside of the door.
18 As with the trunk, the door-lock cylinders are secured with a spring-clip retainer. Use a long screwdriver to release the clip, and pull the cylinder through the outside of the door. Once free, the entire assembly should look like this.
19 Use one hand to insert the new cylinder into the door from the outside, and the other to reinstall the spring clip from the inside. Reverse the door-panel disassembly process and start enjoying your new, single-key lock setup.
20 Note that the action of your freshly installed lock cylinders may be a bit stiff at first. This is normal, and shouldn’t be a cause for concern. Over time, and with regular use, they’ll loosen up and attain the kind of like-new feel you’d expect. vette