So by now you have nearly every bolt-on imaginable for your V-6 Camaro, and have no idea what to do now. You want to go fast enough to scare a few V-8s, but not sure if you want to go through the time and expense of a supercharger or turbo kit. Well nitrous is your friend. Without spending your life’s savings you can add 100 horsepower, and yet it won’t affect your normal driveability and you can easily return the car back to stock. Plus you don’t have to worry about overtaxing your stock fuel injectors, and if you want to you can even have a stand-alone fuel system to unburden the stock fuel pump. Nitrous gets a bad wrap, but it is very easy to see the upside…and to get hooked.
Of course the key to a painless nitrous install is doing your homework, selecting the right parts, and taking precautions. In all honesty, most nitrous systems aren’t exactly as application specific as they lead on and it requires quite a bit of wiring and even a little fabrication at times. This is not to say that you couldn’t throw on a nitrous kit in a few hours, but if you want it done right it is going to take a bit more time and effort. Thankfully, Ny-Trex takes the wiring and fabrication headaches out of the equation in delivering the Triple Threat Camaro 5 V6 EFI Wet Nitrous Kit (PN 110028). This complete plug and play nitrous system eliminates cutting, drilling, and wire splicing. Mounting the bottle, which actually does require drilling a few holes in the trunk, is perhaps the hardest part of the install. The kit comes complete with a bottle to hold 10-pounds of nitrous, wiring, throttle body spacer with a wet nozzle, pressure gauge, fuel safety switch, WOT switch (via the pedal), Triple Threat solenoid system pre-mounted on a bracket, hardware, and jets (35, 50, 75 and 100hp).
For those new to the nitrous world, the concept is very simple. Nitrous oxide is basically liquid storage of oxygen, which quickly becomes a gas when injected into an engine. During the vaporization process, it absorbs (or more accurately uses) and removes the heat in the intake air, increasing the density of the air going into the motor. At 570° F the nitrogen and oxygen molecules split, adding even more Oxygen that can be combusted in the engine. This combined effect is what increases the horsepower. However, whenever Oxygen is added, so too must fuel be added. In a typical streetcar this is done with a “dry” kit by injecting nitrous before the Mass Air Flow sensor, and letting the computer compensate for the added oxygen. Another method is the so-called “wet” system (like our Ny-Trex kit), which uses either a nozzle or spraybar to combine both nitrous and fuel as it is injected into the air stream. Many prefer this method for being more reliable and easier to tune. Ultimately it allows the greatest potential for horsepower. And just like a carburetor, jets (brass orifices) are used in the nozzle to restrict the flow of nitrous and fuel to achieve the desired mixture and power. The Ny-Trex system uses a toggle switch to arm the solenoids, which force the nitrous and fuel into the nozzle, and a wide-open throttle sensor on the gas pedal to activate it. This setup is easy to install, reliable, and much safer than putting a button on the steering wheel (Fast and the Furious-style). The Ny-Trex system also has a purge to spray nitrous out the front of the grill, which is half the fun of having nitrous. It serves an excellent purpose in getting air out of the lines, so that the nitrous hits faster at the track, and to make sure the system is working – but it also looks cool.
To help walk us through the installation of the Ny-Trex kit we called up Bob Brown at XP Motorsports in Longwood, FL, who actually worked with Ny-Trex to help design the kit. Bob said that no tuning was required for the kit, a rarity for nitrous, nor was any other modifications permanent or otherwise. XP Motorsports also helped secure us the perfect test car, Chris Sorrentini’s 2011 2LT, which had virtually every bolt-on performance part imaginable (save for a set of headers that he assured us were on order). The strapping, young US Army vet hails from the Palm Beach, FL area and employed his mechanical skills, honed working on diesels, in adding an MRT exhaust with SS mid-pipes, RX Performance isolator, and an Injen cold air intake. We had Chris meet us at our installation and dyno facilities for testing, and the LLT V-6 managed a healthy 267-rwhp and 247 lb-ft of torque (through 4th gear of the manual trans). For more about the installation and dyno testing, complements of XP Motorsports, you’ll have to follow along.
1. On our in-house Dynojet 224xLC chassis dynamometer Chris Santorelli’s Camaro 2LT put out 267hp and 247 lb-ft of torque through the manual transmission. It sports a full list of bolt-ons including: cold air intake, intake isolator, SS mid-pipes, and an MRT exhaust.
2. We would be installing this Ny-Trex Triple Threat Camaro 5 V6 EFI Wet Nitrous Kit (PN 110028), which uses a throttle body spacer with a wet style nozzle and comes complete with the solenoids mounted on a bracket, wiring ready to clip in, and every supporting component needed for a simple and easy install. Various jets allow this kit to go from 30 to 100hp. And a lifetime warranty is included.
3. Take a good look at this throttle body spacer and nozzle combination. It is easy to see how the nitrous and fuel mix at the nozzle, making it “wet,” atomizing as it is sucked into the air stream and distributed to all six cylinders via the intake manifold.
4. To get started, XP Motorsports loosened the clamps on the cold air intake and unscrewed the throttle body.
5. The brain of this operation is the Triple Threat, three appropriately sized solenoids (nitrous, fuel and purge) mounted on an application specific bracket. Many kits leave you to fend for yourself to mount your solenoids. The appropriate labels help keep you from mixing them up. This is an early version, which was replaced prior to install with the updated unit that also features an additional ground wire.
6. Existing bolts are used to mount the Triple Threat bracket to the passenger side cylinder head.
7. The provided purge line is snaked over the radiator and behind the grill with enough slack to connect to the solenoid.
8. This custom distribution block is screwed on to the end of the purge, which has a bracket that will attach just behind the Chevrolet symbol to spray out in two directions.
9. Using the provided bolts and gaskets the throttle body and spacer are installed back on the intake manifold. Note: the nozzle goes on the bottom side to keep it hidden.
10. The fuel line is tapped before being pressurized by the mechanical pump because the fuel pressure would otherwise be way too high for the solenoid (a consequence of direct injection).
11. Mounting the bottle is one of the trickiest things of the whole install believe it or not. Once the desired location is established, holes are drilled into the trunk floor, the bolts are threaded through, and secured by a nut. Sounds simple enough, except the frame rails make it near impossible to get the nut onto the bolt. A little trial and error is necessary. The good part is that it is very easy to run the nitrous line through the frame rail and along the bottom of the floorpan to the engine bay.
12. With all of the lines attached you can see just how cleanly the Triple Threat looks. The blue fittings are nitrous, and the red is fuel…it is clear that a lot of thought went into this kit.
13. Here you can see the wiring. Wow that looks tricky! The butt connectors snap in and you are done. There is a key-on power source (from the fuse box), and the two other wires run to the interior for the purge and arm controls.
14. The wires are run under the plastic shroud below the windshield (to hide them), and then through the firewall on the driver side.
15. The WOT switch is a pressure sensor that goes under the gas pedal that only activates when the pedal is to the floor.
16. After much debate, the plastic on the side of the center console was the best location for the purge button and arm switch. It is important to have it be out of the way, so you won’t bump into it, yet easy to reach. But of course keeping it fairly hidden and not doing damage to something expensive and difficult to replace is also a concern. Fifth-gens without a secondary gauge cluster have a great spot just ahead of the shifter, but we weren’t so lucky.
17. With the 50-hp jets in we made the first pull. At the rear wheels this translated to 35 hp and 40 lb-ft of torque. No sign of detonation and loving it, the air/fuel went from 12.3 to a rich 11.23. It is important to note that all testing was done with 93-octane, which is necessary for running nitrous (can’t stress that enough).
18. Using the supplied chart and jets, we stepped up to 75hp and then 100hp.
19. With the bigger jets the kit performed flawlessly and kept the air/fuel extremely safe, going from 321 to 336 hp and from 313 to 337 lb-ft of torque. As clean and happy as we were with the top end (4700rpm and on), the lower RPM caused some concern. For those who plan to regularly use the kit we would definitely recommend tuning to the lower RPM spark tables, which is not at all uncommon. Thankfully there was no audible knock or ill effects to Chris’ V-6, so we popped the 50-hp jets back in and sent him on his way. Another satisfied customer…at least for a while.