Stroker Engine Build - My First Stroker, Part 2

Building Upon The Completed Short-Block Of Our Home-Grown, Stroked LS1

Step By Step

While builders of overhead-cam engines simply bolt their bumpsticks atop cylinder heads, GM's decision to stick with a single-cam valvetrain on the Gen III V-8 means we still get to derive pleasure from carefully guiding a long stick into a tight space. The front of the cam is easily recognized by its three bolt holes and the camshaft sprocket locating pin; don't put the cam in backwards!

As the Gen III V-8 utilizes five equally spaced, equally sized camshaft bearings, it's possible to rest the cam while partially inserted into the block. This makes things very easy and relatively clean, as it allows you to ease the cam in segment by segment--meaning you don't have to oil the entire thing at once (no need for moly-based break-in lube since this is a roller cam). So, slide the lobes in for cylinders 7 and 8 and let the two rear cam bearing journals rest in the front two cam bearings. Then lube the lobes for cylinders 5 and 6, slide the cam in another segment, and so on.

The LS1 cam is a hollow design, so a long 3/8 extension can be slid into the end to help with its installation. This is necessary because when the cam is nearly all the way into the block, there will be no part of the cam remaining to lift up on and help guide it back. You don't want the cam to fall onto its lobes and risk scratching them or its bearings. Be patient, and don't slide the cam too far or it will slide out the (currently coverless) back of the block!

The stock cam retainer plate has a built-in rubber gasket in the back that seals the camshaft oil galleries from the front cover area of the LS1. This gasket should be lubed with a bit of oil before setting the plate in place. The retainer plate was then installed using an ARP PN 134-1002 cam retainer bolt kit ($8.20) and torqued to 18 lb-ft.

Here it is, the September 2006 issue of GMHTP, and our project 2001 Trans Am is eager to have an engine back under its hood--this time with 383 cubic inches of brawn. Having run the gamut of parts selection, block machining and cleaning, preassembly checks and part fitment, and finally the actual bolting-in of our Lunati rotating assembly in Part 1 of this series ("My First Stroker," August 2006), we probably fried a lot of readers' brains with information overload. Completing the short-block was a very time- intensive process, with lots of test fitting and dimension checking; fortunately, the hard stuff is basically over.

Hopefully, eager-to-learn do-it-yourselfers have had enough time to think over and digest all 18 pages of our last issue and are ready for more. If you're up to the challenge, follow along as we continue the assembly--bringing us ever closer to firing and testing our garage-built Gen III.

Like nearly all small-block GM engines produced in the last half century, the LS1 continues the tradition of a cam-in-block, pushrod-actuated valvetrain. While viewed by many techno-freaks as "old school" and dated, this setup yields dividends of increased durability, decreased engine mass, and lower center of gravity over an overhead-cam style engine. It also allows for a lower hoodline and therefore increased aerodynamic efficiency of the vehicle. Arguments of pros and cons of the design aside, what we're really interested in here is how to put such a valvetrain together, and we begin with the heart of it: the camshaft. In the interest of not inadvertently skipping any steps, we're going to continue to follow our GM service manual as closely as possible. Our machine shop had installed new cam bearings for us, and you should insist the same be done for your block. Just prior to installation, clean the cam using mineral spirits and coat all the cam bearings in the block (those you can reach anyway) with SAE 30 oil. Unlike earlier in the install, where too much oil could be a bad thing on some of the smaller engine parts (piston rings, for example), there's no harm in using large amounts of oil from here on out. So as we continue with the build, feel free to lube away!

Degreeing the Cam
We've just gone through what's known as installing the cam "straight up," with the crank keyway in the "0" position and the marking on the camshaft sprocket aligned with the "0" on the crank sprocket. Normally, cam manufacturers design their cams to be installed just this way, and it should yield the proper timing of valve opening and closing events with respect to the position of the piston in the cylinder. However, if you're a professional engine builder with a custom application for a specific cam, you may wish to second-guess the cam designers' choices and have valve events occur sooner, or in the alternative, delay them. By "advancing" or "retarding" the cam in this manner, one can alter characteristics of the engine's powerband. As mentioned earlier, SLP's timing chain makes this adjustment easy.

This author is not a professional engine builder, however, and wants to stick with Lunati's recommendations as to valve events. And theoretically, we've already done that. Nonetheless, it's common practice to degree the cam; that is, double-check that the timing of all valve events with respect to crank (and hence, piston) position match up to the specs provided on the cam manufacturer's cam card. This verifies that all parts have been manufactured correctly (highly unlikely with quality components from Lunati and SLP), but more significantly, the degreeing process ensures that the installers haven't made any errors of their own. This is a far more likely scenario--though we'd like to think not that likely!

We'll need some special tools to degree the cam, but in the interest of showing you how to avoid spending money on duplicate tools, don't be shocked when you see some tools we used earlier in the build in addition to a few new ones.

The LS1's oiling system is fairly decent from the factory, although the stock oil pump can benefit from some improvement in capacity. To that end, we'll be swapping to a high-volume unit from SLP. Beyond this, minor modifications will be required to adapt the stock oil pickup tube and crankshaft oil deflector to our stroker crank and new pump.

Older versions of the small-block Chevrolet (many still refer to the Gen III as a Chevy as a nod toward its ancestry, though it has very little in common with the original) had thin, stamped-steel engine covers and oil pan. But with the deep-skirt design of the Gen III, these items are stressed, machined-aluminum members that add to block rigidity. The oil pan also doubles as a mounting point for the clutch housing, so precise alignment of all components is critical for sealing as well as structure of nearly the entire driveline. The steps of installing these covers, while somewhat involved, are quite manageable if you get ahold of the right tools.

Front and Rear Cover
Before installing the front and rear engine covers, the crankshaft oil seals need to be replaced. Though GM designed these seals to last at least twice as long as those of previous generation small-blocks, there's no sense in reusing the stockers--particularly when you've already put thousands of miles on them. They're a press-in design, and as such a bit of care and some specialized tools are required. Their PTFE-coated sealing lips mean the areas of these seals that ride on the crankshaft should not be oiled; GM found that on past engines, oil breakdown would cause the crankshaft seals to become caked with degraded oil and additives over time, destroying the ability of the seals to maintain proper contact with the crank surface. The switch to PTFE coating means no more reliance on oil for lubrication and the elimination of this problem.




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