Third-Gen F-Body Z06 Corvette Brakes - Z(06)28

Killer Third-Gen Stopping Power On The Cheap!

Paul Riccioli Jr. Mar 1, 2006 0 Comment(s)

It is a well-known fact that the Third-Generation F-Bodies were solid all around performers from the factory over their 11-year run. It is also a well known fact that while they were some of the best accelerating, best handling, and best braking cars on the street in the '80s and '90s, their technology has begun to pale in comparison to that of today's high-tech rides. The aftermarket has stepped up with a bin of go-fast, turn-quick, stop-short goodies that run from mild to wild and everything in between for these cars. While admittedly most people want to go faster and turn better, often, improved braking is dangerously neglected. The aftermarket has designed a number of combinations to help haul your Third-Gen down to a stop quicker than the factory system ever could. Third-Generation cars came from the factory with either a front disc/rear drum setup or four wheel disc brakes. While both setups worked well when new, over 20 years in advancements have rendered them near obsolete. The original hydraulic system suffers from spongy pedals, small single piston calipers, small rotor diameters, and brake fade. Any of the aftermarket front disc setups will outperform the stock GM pieces handily, however some carry a price tag near $1,000 or more. For around $500, and with some savvy shopping, and maybe some help from a few machinist friends, you can upgrade your Third-Gen F-body with a much newer, more technologically advanced factory braking system. The C5 Corvette Z06 front brake setup uses a larger 12.75-inch rotor that comes in a slotted and drilled version as well as set of dual piston calipers which feature a much larger swept area than the stock Third-Gen brakes. Combine these parts with a set of braided-steel brake lines and your F-body has just as much whoa as it does go for less cost than an aftermarket kit. Installation of this setup is simple with only a few hang-ups to slow you down. The toughest part is begging a friend to perform the machine work for you for free to help you keep the cost down. Even if you have to pay for all the work you can still keep your price below $700.

The most stressful part of the swap is modifying the stock spindles. Unfortunately, if you screw this up you'll be scouring the local junkyard for a new spindle and pulling apart your front suspension to replace the ruined spindle. Follow the diagrams for making the proper cuts on the spindle and always cut less off if you are unsure. You can always remove more later when you test fit and do your final cleanup work with a grinder. Also be sure to use a sharp drill bit and tap when you are making the caliper bracket mounting holes in the spindle. If you screw it up there's a chance you can go with a slightly larger bolt, however, removing too much material will compromise the integrity of your spindle.

Remove the factory calipers, brake hoses, rotors, bearings, and dust shields.

Remove the factory wheel studs and replace with the longer studs. (See Picture)

Have a machine shop machine the factory rotors down to hubs that will fit inside the new slotted/drilled rotors. They should just fit inside the new rotors. (See Picture)

Also have a machine shop make the custom caliper mounting brackets necessary for the C5 caliper assembly. (See attached diagram with specs and picture.)

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