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Fifth-Gen Camaro Nitrous Kit - Stealth Bomber
Thanks to Zex you can add up to 175 HP without Johnny Law, your competitor, or your wife knowing
Jun 6, 2011
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Fifth-Gen Camaro Nitrous Kit - Stealth Bomber
ZEX supplied us with a '10 Camaro V-8 specific kit (PN 82380B), which is a "wet" system that uses a nozzle to mix and inject the nitrous and fuel. Clearance is tight around the throttle body on the fifth-gen, which makes a plate system pretty much impossible without significant relocation of parts. The nozzle allows flexibility of install (perfect for making a hidden system) and has ZEX's patented Fuel Sheer technology. The Blackout version gives you a black 10-pound bottle, lines, fittings, and more to further add to its stealth nature, as does the use of the patented Nitrous Management Unit instead of traditional solenoids. The kit comes complete with everything you need (including jets to go from 75 to 175 hp) for under $640.
Though the base kit is sufficient, a few other accessories are highly recommended such as an adjustable bottle heater (PN 82369, $231.70), which will keep your bottle in a safe and optimum range of pressure. Believe it or not, even in Florida a heater is necessary. ZEX's unit is the blanket style with an automatic shutoff to keep the pressure from getting too high.
A purge kit is not essential, but is a great accessory that will help test the system during the install and troubleshooting. Its primary job, of course, is to get any air out of the lines for a quicker hit. The basic kit (PN 82010) costs less than $114 and is well worth the dough because let's be honest, purging your nitrous system is probably the coolest thing about having it. ZEX also has all kinds of fancy colored light-up LED purge kits too if you want to make a big show out of it.
ZEX also decided to send us a few more accessories such as these billet bottle brackets (PN 82171), gauge kit (PN 82341) and velvet bottle bag (PN 82000B). All three may seem trivial to some, but the brackets are a much better looking and easier to use alternative to the standard ones in the kit and the gauge will be useful in determining when the heater has done its work at the track. And the bag simply keeps your bottle from getting banged up during transport and refills.
Ty Sochaki of Next Level Performance got to work on Terry and Helen Angell's Inferno Orange '10 Camaro SS by first determining where to locate the ZEX nozzle (as well as the Nitrous Management Unit) and then disassembling the cold air intake in order to plumb it and make way for more hardware to be installed in the engine bay. Next Level has done a fine job so far on the Angells' SS, previously installing a Precision Vigilante 2800-stall converter, BMR lower control arms, long-tube headers, exhaust and custom tuning. Terry says it currently runs in the mid 12s consistently using a set of drag radials.
Using the spot previously marked during mock-up, Ty drilled a hole into the under side of the intake for the nozzle. The shavings were blown out of the intake before installing the bulkhead fitting and screwing it together using red Loctite.
The nozzle was screwed into the fitting and then the nitrous jets were dropped in place, starting out with the 54 nitrous and 32 fuel jet, which should equate to 125 hp. Once on the dyno, we'll determine whether the 67 or 83 nitrous jet (with appropriate fuel jet) is a better choice. For now Ty just screwed the fuel and nitrous lines on before moving onto the next task.
The Schrader valve is removed on the end of the driver side fuel rail, and a fitting is attached which will supply the "wet" side of the nozzle.
A separate line goes from the fuel rail to the NMU box (fuel solenoid), once it is installed, which will regulate the fuel before hitting the jet and spraying into the intake.
Ty chose to mount the NMU box to the bottom of the cold air intake's heat shield (below the filter) in order to keep it out of the way and hide it sufficiently. Using self-tapping screws it affixed easily, and he then drilled two holes on the end in which to run the fuel and nitrous lines as well as the wiring. The purge has to be T'd into the box just before the "nitrous in."
Moving to the interior, it was time to mount the switches. At the owner's request, the nitrous arm, bottle heater on/off, and purge button were all mounted inside the center console under the armrest. Of course this meant disassembling the majority of it, which thankfully unsnaps for the most part. Holes were drilled through the back and side since the structure of the console (plus two computers on the under side) made just about every other location impossible.
Thankfully the center console wiring was chock full of key-on 12-volt sources to power the switches. Unfortunately not all of these wires are ideal power sources, though, so it took some trial and error. The cigarette lighter was used for the bottle heater.
The wire for the bottle heater was run under the carpet and rear seat, and zip tied to the battery cable.
The nitrous arm and purge wires were run along the center console (but under the panel) and up under the dash to the firewall. Using a drill and a grommet, the wires were ran into the engine bay and sealed up.
Since he was able to run the nitrous line through the frame rail, Ty chose this route rather than putting the line in the interior and trying to tuck it behind some interior panels. There are varying opinions on which is preferred, but as long as it isn't dangling haphazardly under your car-you are good to go. Safety is key.
After mocking up the location of the bottle on the brackets, Ty begins drilling in the trunk. The nitrous line will run through the grommet to the left of where he is drilling. It is important not to drill into any of the spot welds as it could damage the structural integrity of the unibody, and also to be cognizant of where the drill will come out on the bottom since you'll have to run a bolt from underneath and screw into the bracket.
The supplied 30-amp relay for the bottle heater is drilled in the battery/tire inflator well (since there is no spare tire), and wired up. Power supply will come directly from the battery terminal, meanwhile the ground (negative side of battery), power out (going to the switch on the bottle) and power out (going directly to the heater) are also connected to the relay to allow the heater to turn off on its own once the bottle has hit its optimum pressure.
The bottle heater is a blanket style that has Velcro straps to secure it to the bottle, so it's easy enough to install. Notice that Ty has already gone through the process of reinstalling the carpet, slitting holes in it and threading the bolts through to mount the bracket and the bottle. He found that using antiseize on the studs for the clamp allows a better torque to better secure the bottle.
The liquid-filled pressure gauge is hooked up to the bottle as is the nitrous line. The last thing on the list is to splice some terminals onto the wires for the on/off switch and power before plugging onto the pressure switch (on the bottle).
Seen here is the resistor wire. This connects to the white wire on the NMU and the TPS output wire (purple in this instance). Once wide-open throttle is hit, the resistor wire communicates this back to the NMU to activate the nitrous system (when it is armed). In addition to being effective with the electronic throttle body, it also allows for a clean install.
Ty says that since this is a voltage-sensitive wire, it is best to make the two into one wire and then connect back to the other end of the purple wire rather then just "jumping it." He used high-end crimp connectors with glue at both ends that actually make the wire stronger rather than soldering or using the infamous butt connectors.
The purge solenoid was hidden behind the shock tower on the driver side, and mounted using self-tapping screws. The one black wire is the ground, connected to a stud on the body, and the other connects to the red wire that ran to the interior switch.
Last step for installing the purge kit was running some brake line from the solenoid through the cowl, since the supplied line wasn't quite long enough. Ty had to bend it around the bracket for the hood and the contours of the cowl. In the end it was hardly noticeable with the hood closed. Time to crack the bottle and test it out!
Victory! Now on to the dyno test...
Following ZEX's instructions, Next Level proprietor and tuning expert Geoff Skorupa took out 4-degrees of ignition timing for the 54 nitrous jet. When run back to back this equated to a power increase of 90-rwhp and 113 lb-ft of torque according to Next Level's load-bearing DynoJet. With two more jet sizes left in the kit, there is certainly more room to play, but for now we're happy and look forward to seeing some updated track times.
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